Junipers have amazing resistance to pests and diseases. Although the plant can be weakened by winter drying or, on the contrary, solar burning, which only contributes to the defeat of plants of various kinds of infections. Such problems have to be fought with various drugs. Juniper and urban pollution are not too easily tolerated. The standard response of juniper to this factor is yellowing and dying off of the needles. In addition, juniper does not tolerate neighborhoods with pome fruit trees like apple trees, pears, and even hawthorn, because they are intermediate hosts of rust that is so destructive for juniper.
Juniper is also sensitive to sucking pests. Young shoots of plants often suffer from juniper aphids. If you allow the pest to multiply massively, the young plant suffers a lot.
The pest feeds on the sap of the plant, inhibiting its development and weakening it, which leads to an immediate stunted growth and often causes curvature and twisting on the damaged shoots. How to deal with aphids? As you know, ants are responsible for breeding aphids, so it is worth controlling their distribution in your area. If there are a few areas affected by aphids on a plant, it can be limited to washing the affected plant organs with a soap solution or clean cold water. In such water procedures, the plant needs constantly. The main thing is to protect the soil from the ingress of soapy water, as this may have a detrimental effect on its beneficial properties. If the aphid infects the plant with entire colonies, cut off the tips of the most affected shoots directly from the aphids.
Juniper shchitovka also very detrimental effect on young cones and needles of plants. June is the standard time of the appearance of the larvae sucking directly to the juniper needles. As a result of such an impact, the needles irreversibly die, drying out and falling off the branches. A young plant can not withstand the invasion of juniper scapula and perish completely. The larvae feed on the sap of the bark tissues, as a result of which the bark dies off, the shoots dry out and bend, and the annual increment decreases significantly.
Juniper also suffers from juniper sawfly. The sawman is easily recognizable by three dark stripes on the body and brown head. They are characterized by damage to the needles and shoots, as well as the consumption of internal tissues. To combat this rather dangerous pest, it is necessary to carefully dig up the stem of each plant. A good result also comes from the destruction of nests and larvae of pests, although such an event is successful only if the condition is not very widespread. You can also resort to various popular infusions and decoctions, or use insecticidal preparations.
The plant is also dangerous for the shoots moth, especially its caterpillars. They feed on the insides of the shoots, damaging almost all forms of the plant, although their favorite species is the common juniper. To combat this pest it is necessary to collect spider nests and spray the plant with decoction and infusions. Insecticidal preparations are also very effective in combating the shoots moth. Preferred preparations made on mineral oils.
The most terrible juniper disease is rust. If the shoots of the plants begin to become covered with orange outgrowths in early summer, it means that this insidious disease attacked him. The disease needs two host plants, otherwise it cannot complete a full cycle. Microscopic spores are carried by the wind from the plant to the plant.The disease is also easy to calculate by yellowish-brown spots on the surface of the upper part of the leaf, while its lower part is covered by kidney-shaped protrusions. Apply immunizers to improve plant resistance to the disease.
Junipers: Diseases and Treatments
Junipers are popular conifers in landscape design.
The main advantage of these evergreen plants is the beautiful needles, the variety of shapes and colors, the characteristic aroma, resistance to adverse environmental factors.
But in order to get healthy and well-developed specimens, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the possible difficulties that may arise during their cultivation.
Junipers found in our culture are mostly hardy. However, some of them may suffer from spring burns. Such plants often come out of wintering with “burnt”, yellow needles, which eventually crumble and reduce the decorative effect. This is especially true of Chinese juniper and juniper.
The cause of this phenomenon is physiological drying. In February - March, when the intensity of sunlight increases, the crown of juniper, especially on the south side, becomes very hot, and active photosynthetic activity begins in it, for which moisture is necessary.
Since during this period the roots cannot supply the plant with water due to the frozen ground, the intracellular fluid of the tissues is consumed. As a result of this physiological dryness, the needles begin to die off.
From a physiological desiccation especially vulnerable juniper with crowns vertical in shape, especially juniper varieties of Chinese (Juniperus chinensis) - stricta (stricta) and stricta Variegates (Stricta Variegat), and ordinary (Juniperus communis) - Hibernika (hibernica), Meyer (Meue) and Compressa. However, their horizontal forms, such as Repanda, Prostrata, as well as other varieties of these species, can be burnt.
Solution to the problem
- In order to prevent burning, junipers intimates in February - March with spunbond, lutrasil or other material.
- You can also warm the soil under the plant by spilling it with warm water.
- Junipers can cause significant damage and heavy snowfall. When air temperatures are low in winter, juniper branches become brittle and break easily under the weight of snow, therefore vertical junipers are recommended to be tied up for winter, and to shake off snow from horizontal ones.
juniper branches in the snow
yellowed needles on the sunny side
Juniper causes significant harm to diseases caused by different groups of pathogens. The following diseases are the most common and cause significant damage: rust, trachiomycosis, drying of branches and juniper shyutte.
The causative agent of the disease is basidiomycetes. A very common disease of junipers is the "bloating" of branches and stems, caused by rust fungi. The disease is manifested by the presence on the branches of the growths of a bright orange color.
Such a bright color of the mycelium of the fungus due to the presence in it of oil droplets with a pigment close to carotene.
The disease can last for several years, while the plant not only loses its decorative appearance, it also dries its branches, which can lead to death.
This pathogen is characterized by a complex developmental cycle, which implies the presence of two hosts. On junipers there are such pathogens that have different additional hosts: Gymnosporangium mali-tremelloides (the second host is an apple tree, the social stage), G.
juniperi (second host - rowan, ecian stage), G. amelanchieris (second host of рrgi, aeciad stage), G. elavariiforme DC. (the second owner is hawthorn, the etsialnaya stage). The most common pathogen is Gymnosporangium sabinae, the second owner of which is the pear.
Most often it affects junipers Cossack and Virginia and their varieties.
Most often it affects junipers Cossack and Virginia and their varieties
mushroom gymnosporangium sabinae on the trunk
mushroom gymnosporangium sabinae
The pear also suffers significantly from this disease, and it can be detected by characteristic hyperemia-like growths on the leaves. The development of the disease is as follows. First, the fruit plant, such as a pear, is infected by air.
On its leaves orange spots are formed, which in the middle of summer turn into friform-like outgrowths on the underside of the leaf, forming spores. These disputes (eciospores) infect junipers in August-September. First, in the areas of spore penetration on the branches of juniper appear thickening, which are then covered with wounds.
Two years later, jelly-like orange or brownish outgrowths are already visible in them, basidiospores are formed in them, which are then transferred to the pear, infecting it and causing significant harm to it.
With the appearance of obvious signs of rust disease on the branches of juniper, i.e., when the organs of sporification appear, it can no longer be treated. Sick branches must be cut and destroyed, and the remaining branches carefully treated with fungicides.
When pruning, it is necessary to disinfect the pruner in alcohol, since the use of a non-sterile instrument contributes to the spread of the disease. The treatment of diseases caused by rust fungi is primarily preventive in nature.
Sick branches must be cut and destroyed, and the remaining branches must be carefully processed with fungicides.
In the spring, in the foci of the disease, all plants should be treated prophylactically several times with fungicides. Ridomil Gold MC, a combination drug of contact-systemic action, performed well.
Tilt and Scor, Bayleton, Vectra have a good therapeutic and prophylactic effect. The norms of fungicide consumption in treating junipers from diseases should be increased no less than two times as compared with those indicated in the instructions.
At the same time, it should not be forgotten that during treatment a change of preparations is necessary.
Tracheomycosis, or tracheomycosis wilting
It is quite widespread among various plants and is caused by the fungi of the genus Fusarium.
On junipers, especially in humid years and in places with over-compacted soil, where water stagnation is observed, the disease is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum, which lives in the soil. Infection occurs through the root system.
The roots turn brown, then light grayish spores appear on them. Then the mycelium grows into the vascular system of the branches and the trunk, where it clogs the conductive bundles, resulting in a violation of the transfer of nutrients, and the plant dies.
Drying usually occurs, starting with the apical shoots, the needles on which acquires a reddish tint. Spreading through the plant, the fungus leads first to the drying of individual branches, and then the whole plant.
fusarium oxysporum infection result
The tracheomycosis of junipers virginian and medium - varieties of Pfitzeriana Aurea and Pfitzeriana Gold Star (Juniperus media Pfitzeriana Aurea and Pfitzeriana Gold Star), sometimes Cossack and its varieties, most often suffer.
- When dry branches are detected, they should be removed, and the plant and the soil beneath them should be carefully treated with fungicides, since the infection can persist for a long time in the plant and in the soil. Most often, the disease is transmitted with planting material or when planting plants in infected soil. It should be noted that the soil at the site of the removed dead plant must be disinfected, and it is best to change it, since not all pathogens are easy to destroy.
- If the plant is purchased in a dubious place, whom should be disinfected, spilling it with such drugs as Quadris, Maxim or Fitosporin.
- For a small plant with an open root system, good results in decontamination are given by soaking the roots in the Maxim solution for 2-3 hours.
Drying of juniper branches
Drying of juniper branches is a serious disease that often leads not only to loss of decoration, but also to the death of the plant. The causative agents of the disease are a number of pathogen fungi, which can only be determined by sowing in pure cultures.
These are Cytospora pini, Diplodia juniperi, Hendersonia notha, Phoma juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Rhabdospora sabinae, Pythium cupressina. Signs of infection appear in the spring when yellowing and needles are falling on the plants.
First, small twigs begin to dry out, then the affected area increases and can capture the whole plant. Later between the scales and on the bark, numerous small dark-colored fruit bodies of fungi appear. The infection persists in the affected branches, needles, and their remains.
The spread of this infection, as well as most diseases, is promoted by planting on heavy grounds, poor air permeability of soils and thickened plantings.
The spread of this infection, like most diseases, is promoted by planting on heavy soils, poor air permeability of soils and thickened plantings.
drying of juniper branches Blue Star
drying of the juniper skyrocket
Virtually all types and varieties of junipers can be subject to the disease caused by these fungi.
According to the observations, the juniper rocky, especially Skyrocket, and scaly, suffers significantly from drying out of the branches.
Of these, Blue Star is especially susceptible to the disease, it is sick much more often and more intensely than the closest variety, Blue Carpet (Blue Carpet), which can also be affected.
The small affected branches should be cut out, since the infection remains on the bark and needles of diseased shoots, and the whole plant is treated with fungicides. But if the area of damage is very large, it is better to destroy the plant completely.
Preventive treatment is recommended in the spring, in the middle - the end of April, and in the fall, at the end of October. Well proven drugs: Scor, Ridomil Gold MC, Tilt.
Common disease of juniper, especially ordinary and its varieties. The name of the disease comes from the German word schutten (crumble), the disease manifests itself in discoloration, dying off and abscission of pine needles.
Symptoms of the disease appear in early summer, when last year's needles become brown-brown in color. At the end of August, characteristic black, up to 1.5 mm, rounded or ellipsoid fruit bodies (apothecia) appear on these needles - the sporulation of the pathogen.
The disease develops most rapidly in shaded plants growing in damp places, as well as on weakened plants.
brown shyutte (fruiting bodies)
Control measures. It is imperative to remove fallen needles of the diseased and timely trim the dried branches. For prophylaxis, treat with fungicides in the spring, in the middle of April, and in the autumn, before frost.
Good results in both prevention and treatment showed the drug Kvadris, which inhibits the germination of spores and affects the germinating hyphae of fungi, as well as drugs Strobe, Skor, Ridomil Gold MC.
It would seem that juniper is one of the most trouble-free conifers in the garden, but it turns out that it has its own illnesses. Sometimes, especially after winter, you can see a branch with brown needles on a juniper. And that means juniper got sick. The dying off of the branches, yellow or brown needles can be the result of several diseases of juniper.
Biaterellic branch cancer
In this disease, an ulcer is formed on the bark of the damaged branches, which leads to their drying out. Due to injuries in the wounds, a fungus appears that begins to grow there.This causes necrosis or rotting of the trunk. Due to the presence of the fungus, the bark acquires a brown color and dies off. An ulcer appears on the affected areas, and a black fruit fungus appears in it. Due to the death of the bark, the needles become yellowish and dry out.
To cure juniper from this disease, it is necessary to trim the damaged parts and repair the wounds with copper sulfate with Bordeaux mixture. As a drug, “HOM” or “Abiga-Pik” will be suitable. Sick branches destroy, so that the fungus does not spread further. For prophylactic purposes, wounds after any damage are treated with garden pitch. It is also effective annually in the spring, when the snow thaws, and in the fall to process the plant with Bordeaux liquid. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated in the summer.
Necrosis of the cortex
With the defeat of the bark on the branches in the wounds appear fruit bodies of reddish-brick color, which later become black and dry. The damaged branch becomes yellowish and also dries. Mycelium is found in the bark of diseased branches and in plant debris.
In order to cure juniper, it is necessary to apply the same preparations and carry out the same procedures as for biorellian cancer.
Because of any damage to the branches, the fungus falls into the bark, which causes it to die, the needles turn yellow and fall off. On the wounds, fruit bodies of black color are formed. Due to too thick planting, the disease begins to spread rapidly.
To cure juniper, it is necessary to cut off the damaged parts and seal the wounds with copper sulfate with Bordeaux mixture. As a drug, “HOM” or “Abiga-Pik” will be suitable. Sick branches destroy, so that the fungus does not spread further. For prophylactic purposes, wounds after any damage are treated with garden pitch. It is also effective annually in the spring, when the snow thaws, and in the fall to process the plant with Bordeaux liquid. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated in the summer.
As a result of the disease rust on the damaged parts of the plant are formed thickenings in the form of a spindle, as well as the branches die. At the neck of the root, the crust swells up, it dries and forms small wounds. In early spring, outgrowths of brown are formed on the branches and trunk in the bark, which later become large and slimy. Within these formations, spores grow that cause an orange-golden bloom. In the spring, small specks of brownish-yellow color appear on the top of the leaves, and galls with spores appear on the bottom. As a result, the branches dry up, the needles become brown and fall off.
It is difficult, almost impossible to cure juniper when the disease is neglected, but it is worth trying the same preparations and procedures as when the branches dry out. In order to protect, it is advisable to plant the shrub far away from the Rosaceae.
In late spring, our old shoots needles take on a brown color, but do not fall off. Instead, a black bloom appears on it - these are the fruit bodies of the fungus. High risk of disease in weak plants and those that grow in the shade. The disease spreads quite intensively at high humidity and can destroy the plant. The most dangerous disease in the event that the level of snow is high and melts for a very long time. To cure the disease, use the drugs and carry out procedures, as in biorella cancer.
The disease begins its development in the spring of snow underlayer, when the air warmed to 0.5 ° C above zero. In the spring, the branches that have already been freed from the snow are covered with needles of yellowish or brown color. The needle is entangled by a gray cobweb mycelium, which eventually becomes brownish-black. Later, spherical small brown bodies are formed on the damaged needles. The needles turn brown, dry, but do not fall off. Decorative juniper is deteriorating sharply, the branches are dying. The highest risk of disease with high humidity and a thick crown, for a young juniper.
For the purpose of treatment, it is necessary to remove dry branches in time, process the plant with one of the special preparations (“HOM”, “Abiga-Peak”). For prophylaxis, it is effective to process juniper twice a year in spring and autumn with Bordeaux liquid or the indicated preparations.
As a result of this disease, needles and branches dry up. On the diseased needles formed a black patina. The needles fall off, the streaks become bare and dry. Most often, juniper is ill because of the dense planting, while the pathogen lives in needles, bark and plant debris. For treatment, apply all that and biorella cancers.
As a result of this disease, the roots become brown. Useful elements cease to fall into the crown, because of what the needles become yellow, red and fall off, and the juniper itself dries up. Most of the disease affects young shrubs or trees. Since the fungus is in the vessels, the disease is invisible in the early stages. In the damaged areas, at high humidity, a sporiferous fungus of whitish-gray color is formed. The fungus is found in plant debris and infects other plants through planting material or soil. Most often, plants grow in lowlands, where groundwater stagnates, as well as on heavy clay soils and lack of light.
To protect other plants, it is necessary to remove and destroy all damaged shrubs along with the root and plant residues. Proper planting is also important. As a preventive measure, planting saplings should be treated with “Baktofit”, “Vitaros” or “Maxim”. At the first obvious signs of illness (wilt, root rot), the soil should be treated with one of the special preparations: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B or Gamiar. It is also recommended to spray and water the soil with Fundazole.
Juniper pests include aphids, scabies, gall midges, spider mites, sawflies, shoots moth and pine moth.
When aphids appear, mostly young plants are damaged. Aphid sucks the juice out of it, because of which the plant becomes very weak, its growth is dulled, the affected shoots are deformed.
To get rid of aphids, it is necessary to treat the damaged areas of the plant with cold water and soap. Before this procedure, it is important to cover the soil so that this solution does not get on the roots of the plant. This procedure is preferably carried out several times with an interval of 7-10 days. Also, in order to reduce the spread of the insect, it is possible to cut off the tips of the shoots during the planned pruning. To aphid did not appear, you need time to destroy the ants.
Insect lives on cones, berries and needles. In early summer, the larvae form on the needles and feed on its juice, because of which it dries and crumbles, and the plant itself dies. The larva feeds on the bark juice, which is why it dies, dries, the shoots are deformed and the annual growth decreases.
In order to get rid of the insect, in March it is necessary to put tracked glue on the trunk so that the pest does not have access to the top. You can also make a straw belt around the trunk. Having noticed signs of damage, when the flaps are still a bit, you need to manually clean the insects from the insects with a blunt object. Effectively sprinkle the larvae with insecticidal preparations.
This is a small insect whose body is no more than 2.2 mm long. Its larvae are warty bodies of orange, red or yellow color in the form of a spindle. Due to the larvae on the needles, a growth substance appears, which leads to active growth and cell division, which eventually become galls.
To get rid of the pest, you need to treat the plant with insecticide, remove the branches with galls and destroy them.
When the spider mite damages, the needles become cobwebby, yellow spots appear on it, which eventually turn brown and the needles fall off.During the growing season, the insect gives many generations, so by August the defeat is the strongest.
For prophylactic purposes, it is important to pay attention to young plants, water them with cold water, which increases the humidity. When the first symptoms of juniper need to be treated with colloidal sulfur or garlic infusion. If the damage is very large, it is necessary to use acaricides.
The larva of the sawfly has a small brown head and three strips on the body. They feed on the internal tissues of the plant, harm the needles and shoots.
To get rid of the pest, you need to dig up the soil around the trunk to destroy the insect's nests. It is also effective to treat the plant with insecticidal preparations or infusions.
In late spring, greyish-purple butterflies fly out, and in July small greenish caterpillars with a small brown-red head, which feed on the plant, appear on the branches of the plant. In the fall, they move to the soil to winter and pupate.
In order to fight insects, you need to dig up the soil around the trunk to kill the pupae. Effectively handle juniper in the spring, when new shoots grow, and in the summer with insecticides.
Signs and ways to combat juniper diseases
Most often, juniper suffers from any illness in the spring, when its immune system did not return to normal after the winter period. The overmoistening of the soil during spring floods and the raising of the groundwater level have a negative effect on the ornamentation of the plant. His needles turn yellow and die off. Spring temperature drops and freezing often lead to freezing of the crown and roots. Young bushes are especially susceptible to this.
Junipers may also suffer from spring burns or physiological drying, which are manifested by yellowing of the needles and further shedding. This happens due to the fact that at the first spring rays of the sun, in late February - early March, the crown of the shrub gets very hot, photosynthesis is actively taking place in it, which requires moisture. Not being able to take water from frozen ground, juniper consumes intracellular fluid tissues. In order to protect the plant from this phenomenon, in February-March it is necessary to priten it with agrospan, lutrasil, spunbond, spruce branches, or other materials.
However, fungal infectious diseases still pose a great danger to coniferous shrubs. On the most common of them and the care of juniper in the period of illness, see below.
Juniper biortella cancer
Another dangerous fungal disease for juniper bushes is biorella cancer. It appears as brown spots on the bark, which eventually dries and cracks, ulcers and fruit bodies form on it. Then the juniper turns yellow, and the needles fall.
The causative agent of this disease is the fungus Biatorella difformis, which is stored in the bark of the plant. Causes of the disease - mechanical damage to the cortex. The infection is transmitted through infected planting plants and with thick and dense plantings.
Control measures. In the treatment and prevention of biorcellular cancer, the same methods are used as in case of Alternaria (see above).
Juniper bark nectriosis
Necriosis of the bark of the branches caused by the fungus Nectria cucurbitula leads to yellowing and dropping of needles, the death of the branches and the death of the whole plant. Its distribution first leads to the formation of red sporulation foci on the cortex, which later darken and dry. The cause of the activity of the pathogen are dense plantings of shrubs. Control measures. When treating nectriosis of the bark of the juniper branches, the same methods are used as in case of Alternaria. For the prevention of infection using spring and autumn treatment of juniper from pests and diseases fungicides. One or two times is enough to significantly reduce the risk of infection.The first treatment can be carried out with a tank mixture of “Ridomila Gold MC”, “Caesar” and sodium humate. After two or three weeks for the repeated spraying, it is possible to use “Strobe” (“Skor”, “Quadris”) and lignohumate.
Juniper rust symptoms are orange-colored growths on the branches that contain the pathogenic fungi Gymnosporangium confusum, G. juniperinum, G. sabinae. Spores of fungi are rapidly spread by wind to other cultures. Juniper branches dry out, needles fall off. Frequent result is the death of the shrub. Two types of juniper are most susceptible to rust: virginian and cossack.
Control measures. Unfortunately, the treatment of this disease can not be. The branches with the tumors are removed, the cut sections are disinfected and covered with garden pitch, oil paint. Healthy branches are treated with fungicides. Measures to prevent the occurrence of rust will be spraying juniper in the spring with such preparations as Tilt, Bayleton, Ridomil Gold MC, Vectra, etc.
Tracheomycotic wilt (fusarium) of juniper
Fusarium infection occurs from the soil through the root system. The fungus pathogen Fusarium oxysporum first leads to darkening of the roots. Then it penetrates the vascular system of the plant, as a result of which the shrub supply is disturbed. Juniper dies gradually - at first the needles on the apical shoots turn red, then individual branches dry out, and finally the whole bush becomes dry. Medium and virgin species are most susceptible to this dangerous disease.
Control measures. In order to prevent the development of this disease in my garden, it is necessary to carefully choose planting material, not to buy it in questionable places, but to buy it only in specialized stores. If you doubt the quality of the plant, then the soil and roots before planting in open ground must be disinfected with Fitosporin, Maxim, Kvadrisom.
The soil is already subject to disinfection under the diseased plant with Fitosporin-M, Gamair preparations, and Fundazol solution. It will be even better if it can be replaced, since the preparations cannot guarantee 100% removal of pathogens. Dry infected branches must be trimmed and destroyed in a timely manner.
When infected with ordinary shyutte, juniper needles turn brown or dark yellow. Then it dries, but does not fall for a long time. By the end of summer, the needles are covered with traces of sporulation of the Lophodermium juniperinum mushroom - black fruit bodies up to 1.5 mm in size.
Control measures. In the spring and autumn of spraying chemicals for prevention. Thorough cleaning of fallen needles and pruning of affected branches. With a strong lesion treatment is carried out in the summer. To do this, apply Bordeaux liquid, drugs "HOM", "Ridomil Gold MC", etc.
Measures to combat juniper biorcellular cancer
Dried juniper branches should be cut to healthy tissue, all wounds and sections should be treated with copper sulphate solution, 1% Bordeaux mixture solution (you can use substitutes - XOM, Abiga-Peak) The affected branches must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the fungus.
For prophylaxis: for mechanical damage to the bark or pruning of juniper branches, immediately cut over all cuts and wounds with a garden cook. Every spring, after the snow melt, and every fall, process the juniper with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes, if necessary, the same treatment is carried out in the summer.
Nectriosis, or necrosis of the bark of juniper branches
This disease is also considered cancerous. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Nectria cucurbitula (Tode) Fr., the conidial stage of the fungus Zythia cucurbitula Sacc.
With mechanical damage to the bark on the branches of the juniper, brick-red fruiting bodies form at the site of the lesion, sporulation up to 2 mm in diameter, with time they turn black and dry. The affected branch turns yellow and gradually dries out.The mycelium remains in the bark of the affected branches and plant debris.
Control measures with necrosis of the bark of the branches of the juniper are the same as with biorella cancer.
Share with your friends
Against aphids sprayed twice Phyto ferm (2 g per 1 liter of water) with an interval of 10-14 days.
Mining moth is afraid Decis (2.5 g per 10 l), which is sprayed the plant also twice and also in 10-14 days.
Against spider mites apply the drug Karate (50 g per 10 l), against malleus - karbofos (70 g per 10 l of water).
To stop rust, the plant will have to be sprayed 4 times with an interval of 10 days with a solution of arceride (50 g per 10 l of water).
Measures to combat juniper rust
At the first detection of rust stains, you should immediately remove the affected juniper needles and treat them with fungicides with contact and systemic activity, such as Topaz, Ordan, Folikur, Falcon, Fundazol. All affected plant residues must be destroyed.
As a preventive measure, in the early spring and autumn, spraying should be carried out with a 1% solution of Bordeaux or Burgundian liquid, iron or copper sulphate.
In the autumn, in the garden, it is necessary to remove plant residues and fallen leaves, since pathogens not only rust, but also other diseases can winter on them.
Favorable landing sites
Junipers are quite drought-resistant plants, mostly they are recommended to be planted in well-lit places. But during dry periods, in the absence of irrigation, the turgor of the branches drops noticeably, and the plants greatly reduce growth. In the southern and south-eastern regions of Ukraine, Chinese juniper varieties, such as Spartan(Spartan) and Keteleri(Ketelerii), according to our observations, it is better to plant in light penumbra, where they feel much more comfortable and grow better. These varieties, as well as the columnar varieties of juniper ordinary, grow better in areas protected from the wind, behind the facade of houses or under the cover of other tall plants. To prevent overheating of the roots and reduce the drying out of the soil, it is very important to mulch the tree trunk. Especially effective for these purposes is mulch from large pine bark, which not only retains moisture, but also looks decorative. Bark long retains its properties and can serve at least 5 years.
To prevent overheating of the roots and to reduce the drying out of the soil, it is very important to mulch the tree trunk.
Juniper Chinese Spartan
Each type of plant has its own group of pests. They do not develop as much on junipers as on other types of coniferous plants, for example, on pine. But even they can cause significant damage to the plant, leading to a loss of decoration or causing its complete destruction. Consider the most common types of juniper pests.
Juniper aphid (Cinara juniperi)
Wingless parthenogenetic females are brown, with weak pollination. From the head to the tubes are two dark stripes. The body of the pear-shaped form is 3.05 × 1.75 mm. Hibernate in the egg stage. The founders appear at the beginning of the growing season, from April to September. 3-4 parthenogenetic generations develop, in September-October males and females appear, laying hibernating eggs. From late April to September, it sucks needles juice on 2–4-year-old shoots, branches and trunk (in cracks). Much damage to junipers.
Control measures. Treatment with drugs Konfidor, Mospilan, Calypso.
European Juniper Shchitovka (Carulaspis juniperi)
A widespread species that affects all types of junipers (ordinary, Cossack, etc.), as well as thuja, yew, cypress. Females are round, males are elongated (up to 1–1.5 mm) with pale yellow small larval skins. Larvae- "strollers" yellow-orange. Developed in one generation per year. The pest flaps are located on young cones, berries, and the needles themselves.With mass reproduction, young plants suffer greatly: growth is delayed, the needles turn brown.
Wrestling measures. Processing only systemic insecticides - Aktara, Konfidor, Angio, Calypso. Treatment should be carried out at least 2-3 times with an interval of 14 days, changing the drugs.
juniper aphid cinara juniperi
European Juniper Shchitovka
Juniper Moth (Dichomeris marginella)
The pest actively populates the middle of the crown. Usually affects juniper ordinary, virgin and others, except for the Cossack. Do not populate western thuja. The wingspan of the butterfly moth is 10–11 mm, the front wings are brown with a bronze tint. The caterpillar is light brown with three prominent red-brown stripes, the head is dark brown and shiny. Young caterpillars feed in summer and autumn of the current year, and older ones - after wintering. After leaving the wintering grounds, the caterpillars continue to feed for about a month until the beginning of June. During April, caterpillars of the juniper moth weave whole branches into large spider webs. At this time, they do the most harm. They pupate at the same time. The periods of development of different stages and ages of the caterpillars of the juniper moth overlap. So, at the beginning of the first decade of June, overwintering caterpillars, pupae, butterflies, eggs occur simultaneously, and at the end of the same decade new generation larvae appear.
At the beginning of the first decade of June, overwintering caterpillars, pupae, butterflies, eggs occur simultaneously, and at the end of the same decade new-born larvae appear
Years of butterflies lasts from the second decade of May until the end of the first decade of July. Females lay eggs one at a time, more often on the web of nests, as well as on the needles and at their base. Young caterpillars bite into the young needle on the upper side, forming a round hole, often at the base, and lay a mine parallel to the long side in the direction of the needle tip. There is always only one caterpillar in one needle, which closes the mine's entrance hole with a thin web. With a strong settlement, the caterpillars damage up to 75–80% of the growth of needles.
Control measures. Treatment with systemic pesticides since the end of June, at least 2 times with an interval of 10–12 days. Preparations Angio, Confidor, Calypso.
juniper moth caterpillar
Juniper mealybug (Planococcus vovae)
The female is up to 3 mm long, oval, brown, covered with a white powdery wax coating. The winged male. Larvae of I and II instar winter under scales and in cracks of bark of thick and thin branches. After the onset of favorable conditions, they switch to young twigs, preferring to settle in the axils of the needles of the lower part of the crown, in order to avoid direct sunlight. With a high number of populated and pine needles. With the mass reproduction of the pest, the needles turn brown and crumble. Plants are colonized with soot fungus and turn black, losing their decorative effect. In the middle of summer adult individuals appear. After mating, females transfer to thick branches, form an egg sac (ovisak) and lay eggs until the end of summer. Their fecundity is 90-220 eggs. The larvae born in autumn remain for the winter. During the year, one generation is developed.
Control measures. Quite difficult to exterminate. Treatment with systemic poisons at least three times with an interval of 10 days. Drugs each time should be changed, do not use drugs with one active ingredient. Well proven drug Angio.
Galitsa juniper (Oligotrophus juniperinus)
Damages juniper, especially ordinary. Single yellow-orange larvae initiate the formation of cone-shaped galls up to 10 mm in length on the tops of common juniper shoots. The gall is formed from 3-4 densely closed needles with whorls on the tips of the shoots. When the larvae mature, the tops of the needles bend outwards. It occurs frequently, sometimes in massive quantities.
Control measures. Treatment with systemic pesticides at least 2 times with an interval of 10-14 days.
Mite flat Oregon moth (Pentamerismus oregonensis)
Ticks hide in the folds of the bark and under dead scales of needles. Without a microscope completely invisible. Cases of death from these pests are often attributed to fungal infections and other pests. Harm, together with a close view of the juniper flatfish (Pentamerismus juniperi Reck), which lives in open ground. Normal winters at all stages of development. Noticeably harms in parkland. Developed on cypress, biota and juniper. Causes discoloration of pine needles.
Control measures. Treatment with drugs Caesar, Nurel-D, Aktelik at least 3 times with an interval of 10 days.
Juniper pest control
Juniper pest attacks rarely. The greatest harm from them is caused by sucking parasites: ticks, scutes, moths and aphids. They can lead to the death of the plant.
Galliums are small mosquitoes (2.2 mm). Gall midges larvae form sprouts at the ends of sprouts — galls in the form of cones up to 10 mm high. When the larvae mature, the tops of the needles bend outwards.
Control measures. Spraying systemic fungicides. Cutting and burning branches with galls formed.
Spruce Spider Mite
If the needles are entangled with cobwebs, covered with yellow spots and showered - this is evidence of the life of the spruce spider mite. These sucking insects, quickly and often breeding, are capable of causing great harm to the juniper, so much so that by the end of summer there will be no trace of its former ornamentation. Young seedlings with a tick may die.
Control measures. For the prevention of tick attacks, it is necessary to provide proper care to both young and adult plants. Spray them periodically to increase moisture. In case of mass lesions with tick, apply acaricides.
Sawfly larvae harm the needles and juniper sprouts by gnawing their internal tissues.
Control measures. Since the juniper sawfly lives in the soil, the digging of the trunk circle is recommended. With a slight spread of the pest will help the manual destruction of nests and larvae. With a massive lesion - processing infusions and decoctions of plants, insecticides.
Juniper aphid is a small wingless insect (3 mm) of brown color with two dark stripes. Aphid infects young plants. It sucks the juice out of them, as a result of which the scrub stops in its development, weakens, becomes more susceptible to infectious diseases, and the shoots become deformed.
Control measures. Since the aphids are carried by garden ants, it is necessary first of all to deal with the root cause - to destroy the anthills located in close proximity. To remove aphids from a bush, it will need to be treated several times with a soap solution (10 g of soap / 10 liters of water) at intervals of 7-10 days. In case of mass lesions, bio and chemical preparations are used. For example, you can spend two spraying with an interval of two weeks with a biological preparation "Fitoverm".
It is a light brown insect, covered on top with a flap. Reaches the sizes of 1-1,5 mm. Sucking the juice, greatly harms the young plants that stop growing and may die. In adult plants, when a shield is damaged, the needles turn brown, dry and fall off.
Control measures. Spraying insecticides "Aktara", "Confidor", "Calypso", etc. Processing is carried out in two or three visits. Drugs recommended alternate. From gentle methods you can use trapping belts and barrel cleaning manually.
Ants are dangerous in the first place because they transport sucking insects such as aphids, scutes, and bills. They also live in the roots of plants, rotting wood.
Control measures. Treatment of anthills with drugs "Aktellik", "Fufanon", pouring boiling water on them.During the growing season of plants, the preparations “Thunder”, “Medvetoks”, “Ants” and others make the anthills and places of accumulations.
Angled wing pine moth
The winged pine moth is a small purple butterfly with a wingspan of 3.5 cm. The butterfly for juniper itself is not a threat. But its larvae feed on needles. They appear in the middle of summer. They have a body 3 cm long green with longitudinal dark stripes. They pupate in the soil.
Control measures. Digging the ground in the near-wheel circle. Spring and repeated (if necessary) summer treatment with enteric insecticides.
Snails feed on pine needles and juniper shoots. Massively multiply during periods of heavy rainfall. They also like to live in shaded and dense places, on littered soils.
Control measures. Manual collection and destruction. Weeding, thinning dense planting of juniper.
As we see, there are a lot of diseases and pests that trap juniper.However, if you comply with all agrotechnical requirements, select high-quality planting materials, care for the plant, carry out preventive treatments and strengthen its immune system, it is highly likely that you will not see signs of any of the ailments described in this article on your coniferous handsome.
The causative agents of Fusarium wilt are Fusarium oxysporum and Fusarium sambucinum. The fungus, through mechanical damage on the bark, penetrates into the vascular system of the plant, clog it, causing the dying of the juniper roots.
The access of nutrients to the aboveground part of the plant is terminated. The needles, starting from the upper branches, turn yellow, turn red and fall, the plants gradually completely dry out.
In the affected areas of juniper, especially on the roots and basal part, in conditions of high humidity, grayish-white sporulation of the fungus can be seen.
Young and weakened plants are most susceptible to fusarium wilt. Fusarium remains in plant debris. Infection can also occur through planting material or infected soil. Heavy clay soil, insufficient lighting, low-lying areas with stagnation of melt and wastewater, a high level of groundwater also provoke the development of fusarium.
Control measures with juniper fusarium wilt: compliance with agrotechnics, the basic requirements of planting juniper.
At the first symptoms of wilting and juniper root rot, the soil under the plant is shed with a solution of a fungicide preparation: Fitosporin Resuscitator, Fitosporin M, Fundazole, Alirin-B, copper sulphate, copper chlorine, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
For the purpose of prevention, spraying of copper sulphate or 1% Bordeaux mixture is carried out in the spring and autumn. At the first signs of fusarium or tracheomycosis, all dried plants along with their roots must be removed from the site with the complete destruction of all plant debris.
Before planting new plants with an open root system, their roots are treated in a solution of fungicide Fundazol, Maxim, Fitosporin and others. Saplings with a closed root system after planting are shed with a solution of the same fungicides.
Sometimes, in spring, juniper stands with red needles, especially from the south. This is not an infection, but sunburn.
In winter, in January-February, when sunny days come, blinding white snow, sun, severe frost, conifers quickly lose moisture, and there is no way to replenish it - the root system is in frozen ground. To avoid this, it is necessary to prepare conifers for winter in the fall.
Timely cover the root system with a thick layer of dry foliage, humus, sand, this will warm the root system, it will help the juniper to cope with the dry frost. Also in autumn, the juniper needs to be wrapped with sacking or agrospan in order to attract the crown from the bright winter sun.
Juniper has a lot of illnesses, and sometimes they can be dealt with only in the laboratory of Quarantine Service.
But to reduce the risk of developing juniper diseases, we can do the simplest things: avoid thickened plantings, provide good ventilation to already growing plants, do not plant juniper in strong shading, in low-lying areas with stagnant water.
When pruning the branches, always use garden pitch to prevent the mycelium from getting into a fresh cut, in time to deal with pests that are carriers of the infection.
Every spring and autumn it is recommended to carry out preventive spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate not only on conifers, but also on all plants in the garden: fruit trees and shrubs, grapes, roses, hydrangeas and other perennial ornamental plants. It must always be remembered that pathogens can persist not only on junipers, but also on other plants, even weeds. Therefore, it is recommended to remove all plant residues from flower beds and flower beds in the fall and spring.
Image source: cd.intelico.info, nhm2.uio.no, taxondiversity.fieldofscience.com, ascofrance.fr, uconnladybug.wordpress.com, forum.biodiv.petnica.rs, http://www.invasive.org, wiki .bugwood.org, flowerf.ru, dendromir.ru, www.green-soul.ru, flickr.com: Doug Waylett, Sheran, J Brew, Alan Cressler
Methods and subtleties of reproduction
Varietal junipers are best propagated by cuttings, as with the seed method often maternal qualities do not recur (for example, as in thuja).
Propagation by cuttings of juniper in autumn, does not differ from spring and summer. For cuttings cut semi-woody shoots about 10-15 cm long.
It is desirable to take them from young plants from the middle and upper part of the crown, with the growth of the current year.
For the emergence of roots in planting material, the age of the mother plant is important. The younger, the greater the percentage of rooting. It is better not to cut the cuttings, but to break them up.
Separate them from the uterine bush so that a piece of bark remains (the so-called heel). The tips of the cuttings are cleaned of needles and immersed in a weak solution of manganese for 20 minutes. You can also process the root. Then the planting material is sunk to the ground by no more than 7 cm. The soil should be loose and permeable.
To preserve moisture, the cuttings should be planted in a greenhouse or covered with a bottle. I like to plant under the bottle in the nooks of the garden - it is convenient.
It is not particularly necessary to monitor the moisture in the autumn period, because there is no heat anymore, and the soil will not dry out much.
In this year, the stalk, of course, does not take root, it will only grow over with callus, but next year it will grow the root system much earlier. Looks like a juniper rooted in cuttings can be seen in the photo.
There is another method of breeding juniper cuttings - at home. But this is the case if your window sills are not occupied by indoor flowers.
The principle of reproduction is the same, but it is necessary to plant in prepared containers. To preserve moisture pots put in a dense, transparent plastic bags, without closing the upper part, in order to avoid rotting cuttings. On average, the process of rooting at home takes 1.5 months.
What types of juniper are, photos and names can be viewed here.
What should be planting material, how to plant and grow a plant
In general, all junipers are unpretentious, frost-resistant and in most cases do not impose special requirements on the soil.
When planting seedlings, at the bottom of the pit it is necessary to do drainage, compact the soil well and do not forget about watering until the plants take root.
All conifers are good at sprinkling during the dry period (for example, as a decorative spruce).
Plant a plant must be carefully, so as not to disturb the root ball. If you have to buy planting material, it is better that it was with a closed root system.
You can replant at any time. But acquiring juniper in a container, it is important to pay attention to the root system and the state of the substrate.
If the substrate is loose and the roots do not look out of the openings of the container, then the plant has recently been transplanted and there is no guarantee that it will take root well.
Asking where to buy juniper - you should give preference to specialized shops or garden centers. How not to be deceived at the flower fair, read our article.
Like all plants conifers need feeding. Unlike deciduous trees, they do not need a lot of fertilizer, because they do not shed their leaves for the winter and in spring they do not need much effort to build up green mass.
Feed can be a special balanced fertilizer for coniferswhich are sold in stores. If there are no special fertilizers, you can apply nitroammofosku. Do it better in the spring, before the growing season.
Dangerous diseases and pests, their signs and effective methods of control
In order for the plant to look healthy and well developed, you need to take care not only of top dressing.
Unfortunately, junipers suffer from diseases and pests. One of the most common diseases is rust. The causative agent is rust fungi.
The first signs of the disease - swelling of some sections of branches and the presence of growths of orange color on them.
The affected plant loses its decorativeness, dries out and can completely die.
Control measures - treatment with fungicides: Fundazol, Ridomil Gold.
The disease is also widespread, such as trachiomycosis. It manifests itself most often in wet weather in places with heavy soil and stagnant moisture.
Signs of disease - redness of the apical shoots with further spread throughout the plant. The cause of wilting is trachemicosis affected root system.
As a result, the roots of an infected plant turn brown, and the disease spreads to the vascular system of the trunk and branches.
When a disease is detected The affected parts must be removed and burned, and the plant and the soil around it must be treated with the following preparations: Maxim, Fundazol, Quadris.
Still, almost all types of junipers are subject to a very serious disease - shrinking branches.
Signs of the disease occur in spring. At first the needles turn yellow and fall off, then the small twigs dry up, spreading all over the plant.
Control measures - removal of infected areas and treatment with drugs: Scor, Ridomil Gold MC, Tilt.
In addition to diseases, juniper can damage the following pests:
- spider mite,
- juniper moth,
- cypress caterpillar,
- juniper sawfly.
The first signs of pest damage - browning, drying and dropping of needles.
Pest control measures - treatment of actelic, decis, aktar. In case of severe damage, the dried branches are cut and burned, and the saw cuts are smeared with oil paint.
You can read about the beneficial properties and use of juniper in the previous article.
The use of juniper is indisputable, its berries are a storehouse of useful substances, but it is necessary to use it carefully. Uncontrolled intake of infusions and infusions of juniper fruits can bring not benefit, but harm.
Juniper infectious diseases - Site about plants
Junipers can be called the most popular coniferous plants used for decoration and landscape design. At first glance, these beautiful and healthy trees or shrubs seem invulnerable.
What, for example, can harm a juniper that can withstand temperatures of - 35 degrees, lack of watering and lack of nutrients in the substrate? But, alas, like all plants, junipers are ill.
Their diseases are divided into: - infectious, that is, those caused by pathogens,
- non-infectious, the causes of which may be sun, frost, mechanical damage, chemical burns, excess nutrients (or incorrect use of fertilizers).
Juniper Fungal Diseases
According to various sources, from 85 to 92% of juniper diseases are caused by parasitic fungi, the microscopic spores of which, on damaged plants, germinate and cause diseases of varying severity.
Prerequisites for the development of fungal infections:
- high humidity or through measured irrigation,
- a sharp decrease in temperature (especially at high humidity),
- poor soil drainage and aeration,
- poor outflow of thawed and rainwater (especially in the lowlands),
- injury after winter or after transplant,
- weakened plant immunity,
- nutritional deficiencies
- the presence of diseased plants near healthy.
Some of the factors that trigger fungal infections (for example, mechanical damage, weakened immunity, growth of infected plants alongside healthy ones) also serve as prerequisites for the emergence of bacterial and viral diseases.
Juniper diseases caused by pathogenic fungi
juniper rust caused by mushrooms of the genus Gymnosporangium juniperi and Gymnosporangium sabinae
Juniper RustThe causative agents of this common disease are Gimnosporangium fungi, for the life cycle of which two hosts are necessary.
The main species are different genera of juniper, and the intermediate is fruit trees and shrubs from the family of the Pink (subfamily Apple) - pear, chokeberry, apple, cotoneaster, hawthorn, quince.
Mushrooms have a two-year developmental cycle and are equally harmful to both the primary and intermediate host.
RUST ON PEARSigns of defeat are spindle-shaped thickenings on the shoots, needles and cones, after which the needles, shoots, as well as the main skeletal branches, die. At the base of the trunk growths are formed, on which the bark dries out over time, and cracks appear.
With the onset of spring, small growths form on these cracks, which at high humidity (rain, fog) become covered with mucus. Bright orange spores formed in these spore-carrying bags are carried by the wind and infect fruit crops even before foliage appears.
On the plants from the subfamily Apple, the fungus develops on the foliage, forming on the ventral surface of the laminae outgrowths resembling horns in which spores mature. Control measures remove all infected parts of juniper at the first signs of damage and burn. It is also necessary to pin down the infected leaves of the intermediate hosts.
After removal of the shoots, it is necessary to treat the cut sites with copper sulfate (or other fungicide). It also requires fungicidal treatment of the whole plant at least two times per season (HOM, Topsin, Abiga-Pik, Topaz, and other drugs). This disease is severe, with a strong lesion not curable, so if juniper has been ill for a long time, it is better to throw it away.
In some sources, as a measure of prevention, a recommendation is given - do not plant intermediate hosts (apples, pears, quinces) near the juniper. However, the spores of rust fungi easily overcome a distance of hundreds of meters, so this measure of prevention is not very relevant.
Juniper FusariumFusarium (tracheomycotic wilt) is caused by the same-named fungus parasites of the genus Fusarium (Fusarium - F.Oxysporum or F. Sambucinum), which settle on juniper roots. Perhaps this is the most dangerous disease, because it is not possible to identify it at the initial stage.
Microscopic spores of the fungus penetrate the root system and block the access of water and minerals to the aerial part of the plant. Over time, this results in drying of the needles and shoots, and subsequently to the death of the plant.
If you dig up a diseased juniper, then all its roots will be brown, and on some you can observe a mouse-colored plaque - this is sporulation.
FUSARIOUS WELLING OF PLANTSThe fungus can be stored for a long time in the soil, plant remains, therefore the main condition is care and compliance with agricultural technology.
At the first signs of the disease, the damaged areas should be removed and the sections disinfected; in severe cases, the plants are uprooted. Since the infection lives in the soil, when a disease is detected, the soil is shed with a solution of Fundazole or Previkur.
Biological preparations like Fitosporin-M, Gamair and others can be used. To prevent infection, before planting, open juniper roots should preferably be kept in a fungicidal preparation for soaking and processing the roots and bulbs (for example, Maxim, Baktofit).
It must be borne in mind that most often fusarium develops in lowlands, in shaded areas, on heavy substrates with poor aeration and poor water outflow.
This juniper disease is caused by the fungus Alternaria, which gave it its name. The needles are the first to be affected - it is covered with a dark velvet bloom, gradually losing its green color and falling off. After that the branches dry up.
Prevent the disease by prophylactic spraying with fungicidal preparations and processing of cuts with garden pitch.
When infected, the diseased parts of the plant are cut out and burned, and the juniper is treated with antifungal preparations.
More often suffer from the disease young junipers. Infection is caused by the Phomopsis juniperovora or Kabatina juniper mushrooms. First of all, dry new shoots and needles on them. Large branches are extremely rare.
But Senets can be completely destroyed by the parasite. Fungal bodies are small, gray or black. Visually appear as small spots. Late blight also belongs to the group of diseases that cause drying of the branches.
This disease of juniper with the same symptoms is caused by various pathogens - Diploidia, Cytospore, Thomas and others. On the dried bark fruit bodies are formed in dark brown, brown or black flowers. Gradually, the needles turn yellow or turn brown and fall off. The proper cultivation of plants prevents the development of the disease. Treatment, as with rust.
Similar symptoms are observed with necrosis, which is treated like all the fungal diseases of juniper.
juniper branches necrosis and rust
The fungus Nectria cucurbitula develops on the bark of the branches, forming orange pads from the 2-mile spore. They gradually dry out and darken. At the same time, the bark dies, partly branches, needles dry and fall. Over time, large branches die.
Schutte is a species-specific conifer disease. Juniper affects Herpotrichia nigra (then the disease is named brown snow mold, or brown schutte) and Lofodrmium juniper (Lophodermium juniperinum).
Mushrooms develop under snow, have high frost resistance and do not die at low temperatures. After the snow melts, the needles turn brown and the mycelium enveloping them is clearly visible. At the beginning it is greyish, and then darkens to black. In this case, the needles stick together.
After some time, the fungal fruit bodies with spores become visible on the affected areas.
Control measures, as with other juniper fungal diseases.
Prevention will be sparse planting of trees and good solar lighting, moderate soil moisture, good water permeability, seasonal 2–3 times treatment with fungicides (Abiga-Pik, Khom, etc.)
It is manifested by browning and drying the bark with the subsequent formation of ulcers. For this reason, the disease is called ulcerative cancer (or bioretella cancer). Gradually the plant dies off and the needles fall off. In addition to juniper infection is observed in pine. It has a protracted nature, weakening the plant for decades. It is treated in the traditional way for all fungal diseases of juniper.
General recommendations for the prevention of fungal diseases of juniper
Conventional preventive measures are enough to reduce the risk of infection with fungal infections by 3–3.5 times, these methods are universal for any fungal infections. In addition to preserving a healthy beautiful juniper, prevention will also benefit the plants around it, even if they are not conifers and are not affected by the same pathogens.
Protect juniper from diseases will help:
- the right choice of landing site (avoid lowlands, depressions),
- compliance with planting (soil composition, fertilizer, fungicide preparations),
- timely removal of broken, dried, damaged shoots,
- monitoring the state of the plant (in time to detect the first signs of the disease),
- prevent thickening landings
- treatment of the affected areas - cracks on the bark, areas of the cut - with protective substances,
- choice for planting healthy plants,
- if the seedling root system is bare, without an earthen coma, then before planting, hold the juniper in the fungicide solution for 15-30 minutes (the solution should cover all the roots and a couple of centimeters of the trunk),
- preventive autumn and spring treatment of vitriol or other fungicidal preparations (this condition is necessary if there are diseased plants at the site),
- timely fertilization, for plant health,
- reduction or cessation of irrigation with a decrease in temperature.
Juniper viral diseases
Viral diseases are much rarer than fungal, but their danger is that they are incurable. You can try to save a diseased juniper by cutting off all the affected shoots, but even this does not give any guarantee, because the virus can already be found in all tissues.
There are no specific viruses that infect only juniper, but there are viruses infecting hundreds of species of various plants, including conifers (for example, a spotting virus).
Symptoms of defeat by a virus can be deformation of branches, splitting of leaves, appearance of mottling in green forms (usually the disease begins with a single shoot). Even if it seems that the disease has been defeated, this does not mean victory.
An invisible virus from the outside can remain in the plant's tissues for a long time, gradually infecting it from the inside, and can also infect healthy plants that are nearby.
The most effective remedy for viral diseases of juniper is to remove the entire plant along with the root and be sure to burn it (and not leave it in a compost pit or for mulching). To the place where the juniper infected by the virus grew should not be planted woody plants for a year or two, and it is better to change or disinfect the soil.
Organizational and business events
The group of organizational and economic measures primarily includes the proper placement of trees on the site. It provides for the observance of the optimal distances between trees, determined by agro-indications. For tall varieties, a large area of food is required (usually 4 × 5 m), for a semi-dwarf and dwarf - less. Condensation of plants is undesirable: closing trees with their crowns, they interfere with each other, the work on spraying trees is impeded, and lighting conditions deteriorate. Thickened plantings, in addition, worse blown by the wind.
Varieties of fruit crops of different ripening terms are sprayed different number of times: summer varieties less, winter - more. Often for their processing using different means. Therefore, trees with the same ripening period of fruits should be placed in groups. This will protect summer varieties, especially during the period of ripening and harvesting, from getting on them toxic chemicals when spraying winter varieties.
Planting material for planting and renewing the garden and berry, seedlings and seeds of vegetable and flower crops should be healthy, not contaminated with pests and diseases.With planting material in the garden can be brought aphids, leafworms, scythophilus, phylloxera, some pathogens. Therefore, it is better to take planting material not from individuals, but in fruit nurseries.
Sometimes, in order to more fully utilize the land, berry bushes, strawberries, and vegetable crops are placed between the trees. Such placement can be justified only in the first years after the laying of the garden, when it is not necessary to spray trees with toxic chemicals. When sprayed, pesticides fall on the berries growing under trees, strawberries, and vegetable crops and make them unsuitable or unsuitable for use as food.
Agro-technical measures with timely and high-quality implementation allow to grow strong healthy plants with enhanced resistance to damage by pests and diseases. They significantly reduce the number of pests and, accordingly, reduce the damage from them. It is advisable to give preference to varieties resistant to pests and diseases, if their yield and taste meet the requirements of the gardener. Loosening the soil, destroying weeds, moderate fertilization prevent the reproduction of many pests and pathogens.
Autumn digging of the soil with careful sealing of fallen leaves and other plant debris is an effective method of combating apple scab, cabbage moths, speckles, etc. Cutting and burning dry and damaged branches in the garden reduces the number of corpuscular, gooseberry aphids, apple glass, and raspberries flies and others. Many pests and pathogens multiply on weeds and transfer from them to cultivated plants.
Regular destruction of weeds reduces the number of cruciferous flea beetles, cabbage moth, white rot of garden crops and many other pests. Timely harvesting of apple fruits reduces their losses from the codling moth, scab. Sowing on the site of floral plants and nectar bears attracts beneficial insects. Eating flowers with nectar increases their fertility and enhances beneficial activity.
The mechanical control method includes measures aimed at the physical extermination of harmful insects, and sometimes pathogens, and the creation of obstacles to the penetration of pests to the fruit tree or its crown. The group of these methods includes, for example, removing from the branches and burning of the winter nests of the gold-tails and haws, hanging on the arms of the hunting belts, the manual gathering and destruction of the Colorado potato beetle, the caterpillars of the cabbage whitefish, etc.
Biological method of struggle
The biological method of controlling pests and pathogens of plant diseases is based on the use of their natural enemies against them - predatory and parasitic insects, ticks, and insectivorous birds. Also used viruses, bacteria, fungi, often causing massive death of pests. By the way, parasites are considered to be animals that live on the body or inside other animals of the "owners", feeding on their juices or tissues. Parasites lead their “master” to death, when they complete their development. The predator feeds on the prey for a short time, killing it immediately. Of the predators in the gardens and in the gardens are often ladybugs, golden-eyed, ground beetles, tachina flies, spiders, predatory mites, and from parasites - trichogram, aphelinus, eupteromalus and other hymenoptera.
Beneficial organisms are used to control pests in many ways. For example, a trichogram is diluted in laboratories, and then released into gardens and vegetable gardens in order to combat the apple tree moth, the cabbage belyanka. Bred and released in greenhouses predatory mite phytoseiulus to fight spider mites on cucumbers.At the garden plots it is possible to attract parasites and predators and protect them by sowing phacelia, mustard, dill and other nectariferous. A reasonable reduction in the volume and timing of the use of pesticides will help to preserve beneficial insects and mites. A number of bacterial and fungal pest control products are produced by the industry (lepidocide, bitoxibacillin). In order to attract insect-eating birds to the gardens (tits, flycatchers, starlings), birdhouses and other dwellings are hung in the gardens.
Chemical control method
The chemical control method is based on the use of insecticides against insects, acaricides against ticks, fungicides against fungal diseases against pests and diseases. Chemical preparations can be used by spraying, less often dusting plants, depositing them in the soil, preparing poison baits, sometimes gassing (plants, warehouses, greenhouses, containers), dressing seeds, bulbs and tubers intended for planting. Chemicals are applied to plants with the help of special equipment - sprayers, bleach. The chemical method is convenient and easy to use. He reliably enough to protect the crop. However, toxic chemicals are not harmless to humans and domestic animals, which requires caution in handling them.
In addition, not only harmful, but also beneficial organisms die from pesticides. Accumulating in fruits and other parts of plants, pesticides can be dangerous to humans. Getting into the air, soil, water, they, along with fertilizers and herbicides are a source of environmental pollution. Therefore, in recent years, toxic chemicals tend to be applied less frequently, only if there is a significant amount of pests, when it is impossible to reduce their number by other methods.
Scientists have developed thresholds of harmfulness, i.e., such quantities of those Or other pests have been established at which and above which the treatment with pesticides becomes appropriate. To obtain a higher effect and to avoid burns of sprayed plants, when using pesticides, it is necessary to adhere to the recommended concentrations.
Guest, it can be a burn as a result of transplanting to a bright place. Dried branches will not go away anymore - you need to wait for new ones to grow, and the dead ones will be cut off slowly if they have no live buds on their tops.
Good day! Cossack juniper dries. In the autumn of transplanting from a little shady place to a more lighted one. The juniper itself is 80 cm tall, S-shaped chtyol, the shit was bluish-green, and now it's pale and easy to crumble. Processed Topaz, fitoverm, poured zircon and phytosporin, while no improvement. What it can be, I will not attach my mind. The web is a little, but not tick-borne, but from an ordinary spider. In the spring, however, the cats marked it a little, judging by the smell, but it was still normal, but from the end of May-beginning of June it began to dry sharply. Help save.
Guest, if the growths on the branches of juniper are yellow, brown, orange, then it is rust of juniper. The branches should be cut and burned, not leaving a plant on one lesion. Instruments after that it is desirable to disinfect. And look for other plants in your garden and near your site this summer for signs of rust fungi: spots, pads, growths on the leaves. Additional hosts of this type of juniper rust are plants of the Rosaceae family: hawthorn, mountain ash, pear, etc. When you find an intermediate host, you have to make a decision: either it is better to part with the juniper, or with this plant, otherwise it is very difficult to deal with rust. You can learn more about combating rust and other juniper diseases with the plant treatment expert Irina Ivanova, she gives free consultations on our website.
Found on juniper gelatinous yellow growths that is.
The guest is not a mold, it is a black fungus (also like a mold). But it does not start up on the branches, but on the sticky secretions that remained on the branches after the aphids. This is a dried sugary syrup called pad. The black fungus feeds only on sugar from the honeydew; the black bloom does not directly harm the juniper branches. Only closes the needles of the light and spoils the appearance. It can be simply rinsed out with a hose along with the remains of the pad. If it is bad to wash off, lightly rub with a soft brush or sponge. Thoroughly wash off is not necessary. You will strongly rub - damage juniper branches. What is not erased - leave, over time, the rains will wash away.
tell me, juniper attacked aphid, processed aktar, wait for the next processing time 10-14 days. meanwhile, the aphid accumulation sites are covered with toli with mold or with excrement, if this is the last option, should the branches be cut off?
Fedya, there is not enough information in your question to determine if this is a problem and which one. Probably the best thing to ask for advice in our forum. There is an opportunity to attach photos. But I can assume that you just brought from the Crimea one of the types of juniper, which has red cones. For example, juniper prickly (Juniperus oxycedrus).
I would like to know what can be with the Crimean junipers, when those appeared gelatinous berries, similar to the barberry .. thanks in advance.
Guest, your question is more like jokes. What do you think, if a plant has a height of 3 m and cuts all diseased branches, and you say that juniper is sick to its full height, there will be a lot of sense and beauty from such a mop on the plot? And if fruit trees grow alongside this. Rosaceae (apple, rowan, pear, quince, hawthorn, loquat) - rust is not treated. Dig it, treat the neighboring plants and do not fool yourself.
Tell me pzhl, if the juniper (3 meters tall) is completely affected by rust, is it treated?
Guest, something seems to me that your juniper shutte. It is necessary to cut the diseased branches, process the plant with 1% Bordeaux mixture or analogues ("Hom", for example).
How to treat brown mold?
Guest, can you describe in more detail, please, what is it like? :) There are different treatments - contact and system. But in April, no one else eats anyone :), but burning and fungus infections - easily.
I got a crap on young shoots, as if someone was eating shoots. Tell me, please, what can it be.
against powdery mildew, use "fast" in the instructions may not be mozhevelnik. read "apple and pear"
It’s not necessary to get stuck on one arcyride. There are a lot of fungicides with a similar spectrum of action. Look for “home”, “polycarbocin”, “zineb” bayleton, I think it will also work. or modern analogues. if you need more detailed info write to [email protected] try to answer your questions.
Rust-rust, but my juniper is struck with powdery mildew? It seems that the site doesn’t talk about it. White scurf has accumulated on the shoots, the plants are clearly oppressed, they have flown small, several types of insects. Under white bloom there is brown slur, but it is quite possible that it's a wet bark. Has processed today with bio-fungicide. It's a pity if it dies.
HELLO, BUYED JUNGERICER PASSED THREE MONTHS HE WANTED YETHING FROM THE BOTTOM AND ON THE WELFARE DRY AND TERRIBLY BREAKING AND EASY BREAKING, IT'S GOOD TO DO IT AND YOU CAN PUT IT
Dear guests! Below, where you pressed the green button "add a comment" there is another, brown "discuss on the forum." Try to ask questions there. You need the section "diseases and pests of plants".
After the cold winter, we obviously had rust on the juniper. It is tall, sprawling, like spruce. How to save it, cure it? Where can I get ARCERID? Or are there other more affordable tools?
I found yellow peas on the juniper root system, what is it?
Thank you very much for your answer! Was in three stores. The question: "Are there any fungicides" caused confusion, a pause and a puzzled look. (.) Attempting, at the same time, to clarify: "I would preferably have a systemic one" caused complete and complete brain paralysis.
We consulted on your question with the phytopathologist-practitioner, Candidate of Biological Sciences Sofia Zhelezova. She advises you to request any systemic fungicide available in the garden center - the brand does not matter. Folk remedies against rust ineffective. To avoid the spread of rust, without resorting to "chemistry", usually get rid of plants that are intermediate hosts of rust fungus (it is known that most pathogens of this type pass through one stage of development on some plants, another - on others). But in the case of juniper rust, this will be problematic: the intermediate hosts of this mushroom are apples, pears, quinces.
Tell me if there is a folk remedy for rust - the whole city was running around, there is no arceride anywhere
This is hardly a parasite. If junipers are imported, then, most likely, this is a balanced fertilizer.
I bought junipers in pots in Merlin, when planting I noticed yellow peas of the correct form on the root system, crushed one, inside it turned out to be liquid. This is some kind of parasite. What can it tell someone and how to deal with it.
If rust is suspected, juniper is best sprayed immediately with fungicides with a two-fold repetition in two weeks. Experts recommend doing this at the first sign of rusting.
and how to find out in more detail how to treat junipers - small - half a mn of everything - they were planted last year - most likely - rust - after winter and dampness - one side in an area of 20% is poyzhela - there is a photo with whom to talk with - thank you in advance