The size and quality of the strawberry harvest depends on the variety of berries and compliance with the agrotechnics of its cultivation on the site. Garden strawberries do not like to be in one place for a long time, and starting from the third year, it stops the formation of a rosette, reduces the number of peduncles, from which the yield suffers. To update the berry plantation successfully, it is important to know when it is better to transplant strawberries to a new place: in the fall or spring.
Why do you need to transplant strawberries to a new place in the autumn
The process of transplanting strawberries has two objectives: the renewal of plants and the change of the place of their cultivation. The peculiarity of this perennial plant is that since the third year of the growing season the socket begins to age sharply.
Gardeners love strawberries for active and long-term fruiting
Changing the site of growing berries due to the accumulation in the soil of pathogenic bacteria and fungi.
Autumn transplantation is preferable for the following reasons:
- Well-rooted plants in the late autumn during wintering lay a lot of flower stalks, and in the next season they begin to actively bear fruit. With the spring transplant, the plant spends strength on rooting, so the berries form significantly less.
- Autumn weather is preferable for better rooting of young rosettes. Plants take root quickly on cool autumn days. In addition, the bushes do not have to often water because the moisture in the soil lasts longer and the likelihood of rain in the fall is greater than in the spring.
- In the fall, a wide variety of planting material selection and its price is lower than during spring agiotage of summer residents. If the gardener decided to change the variety grown on the site, he can choose the most advantageous option for himself.
- Transplanting in the fall is more profitable in terms of physical costs. Work can be carried out without haste, because urgent matters at the site in the fall are much less than in spring.
Terms of transplantation
It is impossible to answer the question when it is better to transplant strawberries to a new place in the autumn. It all depends on the weather, as well as climatic conditions.
It is autumn transplant that contributes to yield.
Focus on the following indicators:
- climatic conditions of the region,
- microclimate of the site,
- quality of planting material
- ways of breeding berries.
Replacing the outlet is better at a temperature of 15 to 23 ° C, with sufficient soil moisture.
The optimal time for transplantation in different regions is as follows:
- Central Russia and the Moscow region - from mid-August to late September.
- The southern regions - from early September to mid-October.
- The northern regions and the Urals - from the beginning of June to the end of July.
IMPORTANT. Adjustment of terms is made depending on specific weather conditions. If frosts are planned, it is worth hurrying with a transplant, otherwise the seedlings will not have time to settle down.
Selection and preparation of the site for planting
The most successful place for growing strawberries - the south-western part of the site with a slight bias to prevent stagnant moisture. The occurrence of groundwater in the area should be no higher than 80 cm. A small hill will protect the roots from rotting, which can appear in early spring after the snow melts.
Weather conditions set certain requirements for the rules of transplanting, watering, pruning plants
The selected area should be sunny, but not blown by strong winds through. A sufficient amount of sun will provide not only large berries in large quantities, but also make them sweeter.
Strawberries prefer fertile soil of 5.7–6.2 pH. Peat and sandy soil for plants are not suitable.
Proper selection of fertilizers, timely digging and loosening can create all the conditions for the rapid growth and ripening of berries
The best predecessors of strawberries:
It is not recommended to plant strawberries on the plot where the following crops were grown:
- Sticks, especially potatoes,
TIP. It is advisable to plant a plot chosen for strawberries in spring with onions or garlic or sow with green manure: lupine, cereals.
Bed under the strawberries deeply dig. 70 g of superphosphate, 30 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt are added to the soil per 1 square meter. After preparation, the site is left for 10-14 days to soil settled.
For decontamination, experienced gardeners advise treating the site with an antiseptic solution: 3 tbsp of 10 liters of water is added. l vegetable oil, 2 tbsp. l ash, 2 tbsp. l vinegar, 2 tbsp. l liquid soap or dish detergent.
Technology transplants: step by step instructions with photos
- For planting young rosettes choose a cloudy day. Ideally, it will rain immediately after disembarkation. If he passed the day before, it is also not worth delaying with the landing. In the prepared soil, the holes are made at a distance of 30–35 cm from each other, the row spacing is 50 cm.
Transplanted strawberry bushes should have time to harden before the onset of cold weather.
After planting strawberries need to be watered, even in the rain.
It has been empirically proven that transplanting strawberries should be done from August 15 until the end of September.
The main methods of planting: carpet, individual bushes, nests, rows
Breeding characteristics of remontant varieties
Unlike conventional varieties, remontant strawberries do not produce whiskers - air shoots. Therefore, the seeding is done by dividing an adult bush.
Rosette remontantnogo grade dug out of the soil. It consists of a central lignified root, to which the young processes are attached. The bush is divided into several parts so that in each remained personalized roots 5–7 centimeters long.
Remontrance - the ability to repeatedly bloom and bear fruit
Old leaves and remaining flower stalks are removed from the separated process. If left at the outlet, the plant will lose strength and will take root too slowly. Root dip in Fitosporin-M for 2 hours. This technique will protect the plant from the fungus and fill the roots with vital force. After this time, sockets are planted according to the technology described above.
Caring for plants after transplantation and feeding for the winter
Young rosettes need help to settle down. To do this, they are regularly watered, carried out treatment from pests, loosen the soil, remove weeds. If there is no rain, in the first 10 days watering is carried out every other day. Then the frequency is reduced.
If a mustache begins to form on the transplanted plants, they are immediately removed so that the socket does not waste strength. When threatened by frost, strawberries are covered with covering material.
Particular attention when transplanting strawberries and preparing it for the winter is given to top dressing. At this time, the main elements of plant nutrition - phosphorus and potassium.
Experts advise to feed the bushes with the following compounds to feed rooting outlets:
- Wood ash. It contains the optimum content of phosphorus, potassium, and also contains calcium, boron, zinc, iodine, and copper. There is no sense to put dry substance on the soil, as the nutrition of the roots in this case will be limited. An infusion is prepared for top dressing: 300 g of ash is dissolved in 10 l of water and left for 4 days. Fertilize every bush need liter infusion.
- Superphosphate. Fertilizer is poured boiling water for a day, during the time of infusion, the solution is periodically stirred. After infusion, a liter of infusion is poured under each bush.
- The combined mixture. For 10 liters of water take 20 g of nitroammofoski, 30 g of potassium sulfate, 250 g of wood ash. Components insist day, then spend 500 ml under each bush.
IMPORTANT. Top dressings bring only in the damp soil that fertilizer did not burn roots.
With the observance of strawberry transplant technology in the fall, the plant is well rooted during the winter. In the spring it will give a rich harvest.
When to transplant strawberries
Transplantation can be made at any time, except for winter. Experienced gardeners consider the best option autumn terms. In September, you can already transplant strawberries. However, each region should be guided by its climatic conditions. In warm places you can wait for October.
Advantages of transplanting in the fall:
- Abundance of seedlings.
- Rains contribute to the wetting of the earth, thereby rooting the plant.
- Lack of bright sunlight.
- The temperature drops, but the ground is still warm.
- The seedling has enough time to get stronger and grow the leaves until frost.
If you transplant strawberries in the fall, next year you can already expect a small harvest.
An early onset of frosts or a snowless winter can be a hindrance to take root. But there is no reason to be upset, most of the seedlings survive, and the dead can be replaced with new ones in the spring. When transplanting in the spring, fruiting should not be expected.
It is forbidden to plant strawberries on a hot or rainy day. The day after a little rain would be ideal. Also, the seedlings will receive a negative impact from the sun if the transplant is in the morning. Gardeners recommend replanting either in the evening or during the day in cloudy weather.
Particular attention should be paid to finding a new site for planting young bushes. Strawberries are not whimsical to the ground and will grow in almost any area. The soil at the chosen place should be treated from pests and fertilized with nutrients.
Recommended predecessors for strawberry culture:
Green manure grown to improve soil. Promote the development of beneficial microorganisms, helping to get rid of some pathogens. These include: mustard, buckwheat, canola, oats.
- Greens and legumes
Growing greens does not require a lot of minerals, which helps to avoid depletion of the soil. Legumes saturate the soil with nitrogen.
Do not have common diseases and pests.
The above plants will perfectly prepare the soil for planting strawberry bushes. However, we should not forget about the cultures in which the landing is not recommended. These include zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage and plants from the family of solanaceous crops (potatoes, tomatoes).
These plants have common pests that remain in the ground. If there is no opportunity to transplant to a more suitable place, the soil should be treated with fungicides.
It is better to have beds on a site with a small bias in order that in holes there was no moisture. Also a plus will be an open sunny place, protected from the wind. In the shade, the berry grows slower and the taste will not be expressive.
A good harvest of berries in a new place directly depends on the correctly chosen seedlings. Selection is best done after harvest. By this time, the strawberries are already fading, and the process of emitting antennae with rosettes begins.
Choose sockets growing near the mother bush, they will be the best option. When rooting the first two sockets, the subsequent mustache must be removed to avoid depletion of the bush. You can choose the rooting option both in the garden and in a separate tank.
You should pay attention to the bushes with higher yields and an age of two or three years. From the bushes older scions will give a low crop.
When choosing a seedling look at the root system. If the root is well developed, then a weak outlet will not prevent the seedling from taking root quickly.
And now about the appearance of planting material. Dense core. At least three leaves with short roots on a bush. Robe root in length more than 5 cm.
The soil for planting in the fall is prepared in advance. Plot need to dig and clean from weeds. In this case, tops from legumes will be useful as a litter for berries. For each square meter of land used: organic fertilizer (10 kg), potassium sulfate (20 g) and superphosphate (60 g).
Before planting, the roots of bushes can be placed in a container with a growth stimulator diluted in water. Remove the leaves, leaving only 3-4 things. This will contribute to a more successful development of the bush.
- Preparing a bed. The distance between the bushes should be more than 25 cm. It is not necessary to plant different varieties of strawberries near.
- Digging a hole. The fossa should not be deep. Approximately the size that the root could easily fit. Fill the hole with water to the brim.
- Plant a bush. We lower and lean the seedling against the vertical wall of the hole so that the core is parallel to the ground level (Fig. 1). Sprinkle the roots of the plant with earth and gently tamp with your fingers.
- We pour water.
- We mulch a bed with straw.
Under all conditions and proper further care bush fully takes root in 2 weeks.
You can visually see the transplant process in the link to the video below.
Transplanted bushes will certainly need care, it will not cause great difficulties. Basically - this is a regular watering.
- After planting, it is necessary to loosen the soil immediately.
- It is better to water the youngsters every day, excluding rainy weather.
- If a week later some seedlings died, you can plant new ones.
Properly performed strawberry transplantation in the fall will provide you with a good harvest for several years. The main thing is to follow the advice and not skip the important steps of the procedure.
Benefits of Autumn Transplant
Strawberry is a perennial plant from the Rosaceae family, which begins to grow from the beginning of spring and right up to the ripening of the last fruits. The amount of harvest depends on the chosen place for planting. Everyone is aware of the fact that strawberries begin to shrink over the years. To avoid this, it must be rejuvenated every 3-4 years.
Many people wonder when it is better to transplant strawberries so that it adapts faster. Experienced gardeners claim that autumn is the best time to transplant. This is because, due to frequent rains, care for the culture at this time is minimized. Also, the rains will help young seedlings to take root, as the soil at this time maintains a high level of humidity.
The best time for transplanting is September. In warm regions, this procedure can be postponed until October. Even in this case, young seedlings will have time to build up leaf mass for a successful wintering.
Thanks to transplanting strawberries in the fall, the bushes will bloom next spring and will delight a small crop. Of course, the fruiting will not be as big as that of two and three year old rosettes, but the berries will grow good. With the spring crop transplant, you can not wait.
How to choose a landing site
First you need to choose a place for planting young bushes and prepare the soil. This issue must be approached with all responsibility. From the place reserved for the beds, depends on the health of plants and the next harvest. Choosing a place, you must remember about the rotation. For strawberries, good predecessors will be:
These crops will prepare the ground well for future planting strawberries. However, do not forget about the plants, after which you should not carry out planting. These include cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage and potatoes. If the strawberries are planted in the place of their growth, the risk of infection with verticillary wilt increases significantly.
The plot should be located in a well-lit and windless place. If, on your territory, it is impossible to transfer the planting to another, more favorable place, then it is necessary to disinfect the soil. To do this, you can use a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicides.
How to prepare the soil
Strawberry bushes are rather unpretentious to the ground, but they grow most well and bear fruit on loose soils with a weakly acid reaction.Before starting a transplant, it is necessary to prepare a bed - dig and fertilize. At this moment having fertilized the earth, strawberries can be provided with all the necessary nutrients for several seasons ahead. During transplantation you can make:
- rotten compost,
- chicken droppings.
Fertilizer consumption is as follows: 1 bucket feeding for 1 square. m. beds.
The day before the transplant the bed needs to be watered properly. Holes must be formed immediately before planting bushes. The distance between the rows should be at least 50 cm, between plants - 20-25 cm. Such a planting scheme will ensure the most complete development of strawberries. Bushes can be planted not only by beds, but also by carpet, as well as staggered order. Planting method, choose yourself.
Choosing a seedling for transplanting
In August, after harvesting, the strawberries begin to throw out antennae with young rosettes. This time is considered the most optimal for the selection of seedlings. In addition, the plant can be propagated by dividing the bush. But in this case only young bushes that grew in summer will do.
The tendrils for rooting can be left right in the garden beds, but some gardeners prefer to root them into prepared individual containers. So, autumn strawberry transplantation will be carried out with higher quality. In addition, there is an opportunity to grow seedlings in the winter.
When 4-5 leaves appear on a new outlet, it becomes a full-fledged bush that needs to be sown from the mother. Before transplanting from the young bush it is necessary to remove the lower leaves. Due to this, the root system of strawberries will spend less power to feed the green mass. This will lead to a more harmonious development of a strawberry bush.
It should be remembered that only the first 2 antennae should root from each bush. All the rest can be removed, otherwise the seedlings will be weak and shallow.
For planting fit only those plants that have a well-developed root system. A lobe of roots in length should not exceed 5 cm. Old bushes are not suitable for transplantation - they still will not bring the expected results. Remember that the bushes need to dig up before planting, it is better to do this with an earthy clod together. If on the same day it is impossible to transplant, then wrap the roots with a wet rag and place them in a plastic bag.
Many people wonder how to transplant strawberries in the fall, because the yield depends on it. For repotting it is better to choose a cloudy day, so that later you don’t need to shade the beds.
The transplanting instruction is:
- After digging the holes, fill them with water.
- Dip the roots of the bushes in a mixture of water, clay and manure. This will greatly accelerate their survival.
- Put the seedlings in the hole with a lump of earth.
- Bushes cover with earth, lightly tamp with your palms and water again.
- Tumble the soil with straw or sawdust.
With further proper care, seedlings will take root and in the next season will yield in a new place.
What is strawberry transplanting to a new place for?
Developing, the bush grows around, forming new horns. At about the 4th year of life (it depends on the variety), its yield decreases, the plant spends all its vital forces on growing to a width. If it is not transplanted, it will cease to bear fruit completely. However, it is necessary to know which month it is recommended to replant and how to fertilize the plant.
Step by step instructions with photos
- At the time of harvest, you need to select the mother bushes.
Uterine bushes are strong bushes with the largest fruits.
- Dig the desired bush with a clod of earth.
It is recommended to dig a bush before its immediate transfer.
- Carefully clean from dry leaves and shoots. Remove the ground from the roots.
If necessary, the roots of new bushes washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate
- Divide the future seedling into small sockets.
In the bushes of strawberries can not be shortly cut off his mustache, as this can lead to the drying of the plant
- Dig holes, put a handful of mixtures of ash and compost into them.
1.5 months before transplanting it is recommended to fertilize the ground
- Put the rosettes in the wells vertically without bends and stick to the ground.
The soil around the berry bush should be moistened 35–30 cm deep
- It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the heart of the rosette slightly raised above the garden bed, while the roots were completely under the ground.
Strawberries must be watered even with little precipitation.
- Water the plants and mulch the soil surface.
As a rule, for mulching the soil using sawdust, straw, pine needles or mowed grass
- Cover with white agrofibre, newspaper sheets or burdock leaves.
To prevent the bushes from freezing in winter, it is recommended to cover them.
Feature of transplanting strawberry repair
The remontant strawberry has no whiskers that allow the socket to successfully root in the soil. Therefore, when dividing it is necessary that each outlet retains the apical bud and roots. The depth of the holes for the bush should correspond to the length of its roots (10-15 cm)
Why you need to replant
A necessary measure to rejuvenate the plantation and preserve the harvest, is to transplant strawberries in the fall. It is important when moving to another place to divide the plant or to sit with a mustache. There is no sense in transferring a whole bush in a new place, because an adult plant does not so effectively bear fruit.
The main reasons for transplanting are:
- Berries growing on the same plot for 3-4 years become small and lose their juiciness. The plant may completely cease to bear fruit.
- The soil is exhausted after a few years. Necessary trace elements are not enough for the proper development of strawberries.
- In the ground, bacteria and fungus multiply over time. Timely moving to a new place will help to avoid diseases and death of the plant.
- Mustaches that move away from the kidneys every year higher and higher up the stalk. During the winter period they freeze, which leads to rapid aging of the plant.
- The accumulation of groundwater and the formation of lowlands are the reason for moving the beds.
Time to transplant
The best time to transplant strawberries to a new place is the autumn period. You can begin to carry out garden work in September, but experts recommend paying attention to the weather and climatic conditions in the region. If autumn is arid and hot, then it is better to postpone the transplant for a month. When transplanting to a new place in the autumn period, by the next season we can expect a rich harvest.
Benefits of transplanting in the fall:
- heavy and frequent rains will help take root,
- cool ambient temperature
- the soil is warm and with high humidity
- the plant will be able to get stronger until frost,
- after transplantation, flowering is expected by spring,
- lack of aggressive sunshine
- seedlings will require less care
- reduction of the scope of work at the end of the season.
Choosing a place
Strawberries are very demanding to care and susceptible to environmental changes. Therefore, the choice of a place for transplanting strawberries in the fall, you need to approach carefully. The berry will grow well in the beds, where previously grew: legumes, mustard, garlic, radishes, parsley and onions. These cultures prepare the soil for planting strawberries favorably. Cucumbers, tomatoes and potatoes on the contrary deplete the soil. Also, these plants have the same disease. In the case when there is no choice, you need to pre-treat the bed of bacteria and feed the soil well.
Place under the beds should be chosen with a slope to avoid stagnation of groundwater. The allowable distance to the roots is 60 cm. Excessive moisture can affect the condition of the roots and lead to the death of the plant. The slope should be about 2-3 degrees. In the lowlands of strawberries will be cold, because the soil there warms up longer than on the plain.
It is recommended to prepare the site for the plant from the southwest side. By experience, ripening occurs there earlier. Berry does not tolerate drafts. The most optimal will be considered a quiet, sunny place. In the shade growth and flowering are also possible, but the taste of the fruit will not be so juicy and sweet.
Requirements for seedlings
Seedlings must be selected correctly in order to obtain further strong and healthy plants. Otherwise, a strawberry transplant will not give a good result.
Selection criteria for seedlings:
It is important to draw on the size of the root system. The base of the root should not be less than 6 mm, and the length of the roots is recommended to choose about 7 cm. Seedlings should have healthy stems without spots and a modified appearance. It is required to give preference to plants with 3-5 sheets on a bush. The best option would be to choose sockets at the base of the plant. If the socket is small and the root system is developed, then there will be no rooting problems. Preference is necessary to strawberries no more than 3 years. The older the plant, the worse the crop will be.
If reproduction occurs by antennae, this criterion is not taken into account.
Root is necessary only the first two antennae. Others are removed so that the plant is not depleted.
It is desirable to replant the seedlings immediately after digging. If there is no possibility or transportation of bushes is planned, then an earthy clod needs to be wrapped in cellophane or a damp cloth. In the case when the work will be carried out on the site, the seedlings can prikopat prikopat in a dark place.
There are several ways to locate holes in open ground:
Landing in rows the most popular way. The distance between plants should be 25 cm, and between rows at least 60 cm.
Two-line planting seedlings recommended on a plot with limited space. The only difference is the distance between the lines, it is 30 cm.
Check in staggered will require from gardener increased care and skill. Previously, in order not to be mistaken, it is necessary to map out the locations of the alleged holes.
Each gardener chooses an optimal arrangement of bushes on the basis of his personal preferences. The main thing is to observe the minimum distance so that the plants do not interfere with each other to grow and develop properly.
Transplanting strawberries is more efficient to conduct with an earthy ball. In this case, the plant will take root faster in a new place. The whole process consists of several stages. It is important to stick with consistency.
- Initially, it is necessary to prepare the seedlings, fertilize the soil.
- Bed for the day watered with plenty of water and allowed to dry.
- Next, outline the approximate location of the wells and dig them.
- After that, the seedlings are placed in a mixture of water with manure.
- Planted seedlings in the hole very carefully, so as not to damage.
- The next step is to sprinkle the roots with earth.
- Then the soil under the bushes rammed and watered.
- The final stage is mulching with sawdust or pine needles.
In the case of transplants with bare roots, the plant can be soaked in a rooting solution or in a disinfectant. If abundant foliage is present on the seedling, it is pruned. Optimally leave 3-4 sheet. The plant is able to get stronger and take root within two weeks.
After planting, the plants need to provide good care. Proper watering, pruning and protection from pests will allow the root system to get stronger. In this case, the plant will survive the cold and will delight with fresh berries for several years.
After transplantation, it is necessary to water each bush 3 times a week. Watering must be carried out under the root of the plant. It is better to choose warm water, which has been settled for some time. Do not hit the liquid on the leaves and the outlet. In two weeks the plant will get stronger and reduce the number of waterings. It is important to ensure that the soil remains moist and loose.
Cutting leaves at first is not required. It is necessary that the bush was formed. Attention must be switched to the antennae and peduncles. They need to be cut at the base. A weakened plant should direct all nutrients to the formation and strengthening of the root system. Additional sprouts will lead to depletion of the bush.
Pests and diseases can damage the root system and lead to death, so it is important to take immediate measures at the first signs. To get rid of the larvae and insects, you must prepare a mixture. The composition contains 10 liters of warm water and 3 tablespoons of karbofos. The solution must be carefully treated bed and cover with an airtight material. Disease Bordeaux liquid is suitable for diseases and fungal infections. Copper oxychloride can be used.
To prepare bushes for winter, it is required to pre-mulch the soil. For this procedure, suitable needles. It will scare away pests and protects against diseases. Next, the shoots covered with a protective layer of not more than 4-5 cm in height. As a material for shelter fit: sawdust, foliage, straw, peat. Such a shelter will protect against frost, and also allow sprouts to breathe.
There are recommendations from experienced gardeners:
It is recommended to disembark about 3 weeks before the onset of frost. In this case, the strawberry will be able to get stronger. Transplanting strawberries is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening. Sunlight can damage young plants.
It is not recommended to disembark during or immediately after the rain. It is necessary to allow the soil to dry for several hours. If you plan to multiply the plant with a mustache, it is recommended to plan the planting at the beginning of September.
From the right place, soil and seedlings, depends on the subsequent harvest of strawberries. Sockets from adult plants that previously fruited not to choose. They will not give a good harvest in the future.
In the absence of high-quality seedlings at the site, they can be purchased in nurseries or ask the neighbors. Planted preferably different varieties, so that the whole season was a tasty harvest.
Transplanting strawberries in the autumn period will be effective if you follow all the rules and recommendations. Even a novice gardener can handle a simple process. In the new place, by the summer it will be possible to get fresh and juicy berries. Autumn planting is suitable for almost any climate, so it is more popular than transplanting at other times of the year.
The relevance of the autumn planting
Usually, by transferring bushes to a new place, gardeners solve two problems: the renewal of plants or the change of the place of growth. Strawberry culture is a perennial plant, but after a three-year period of growth, its rosette begins to age.
Another important factor may be the development of pathogenic viruses or fungal infections in the soil. In this case, the gardener should not have a question when it is better to transplant strawberries: in autumn or spring. The answer in this case is unequivocal and the relevance of the autumn transplant is obvious. The following reasons can influence the choice of the season:
- The plants which have perfectly got accustomed to colds during the winter period lay a large number of flower stalks. This is reflected in the active fruiting of strawberries as early as next season. When planting in a new place in the spring, the bush spends a lot of energy adapting to a new place and brings much less fruit.
- Young sockets take root much better in autumn. In this season of the year there is more rain, and the moisture is stored in the ground much better in cool weather.
- Another advantage is the autumn transplant of strawberries and the fact that there is no rush between the gardeners. The bulk of the owners of suburban areas trying to buy planting material in the spring. In autumn, the most favorable time for choosing a new variety of berries and planting.
- Physical effort is spent in this period much less due to the lack of a large number of seasonal work.
Choosing a transplant date
Some gardeners are transplanting in August, while others have to wait until September. In what month will be the most successful transplant of strawberries in the autumn is hard to say. Terms of transfer of bushes to a new place depend on weather and climatic features of the area.
The most suitable temperature background for good root healing from 15 to 23 degrees. To tell exactly when to transplant strawberries in the fall, it is important to monitor the weather conditions. In what month to carry out work at this time of year, depends on the area of residence of the gardener. To correctly determine the time for work, should pay attention to indicators such as:
- Climatic features of the region of growth.
- Own microclimate of the site.
- Weather conditions of the area.
- The quality of planting material.
- The method of breeding bushes.
Depending on the region, work may begin in mid-August and last until the end of September in the Moscow region and in central Russia.
Preliminary site preparation
The most advantageous place for planting strawberries is a site located in the south-west. It is better to choose a place with a slight bias. This will avoid stagnant water and root decay. On the landing area groundwater should be at a distance of 80 cm.
The site should be located in a sunny place, without strong through winds. A large amount of sunlight will not only get a rich harvest, but also make the berries sweeter.
When planting should prefer fertile soil with an acidity level of 5.7 to 6.2 pH. Strawberries should not be planted on sandy or peaty areas. It is recommended to transfer young rosettes to the beds after growing carrots, legumes, radishes, garlic, beets, parsley or dill.
Use areas on which previously were grown solanaceous (potatoes), cucumbers and cabbage is not worth it. To enrich the soil with nutrients, it is recommended to plant the proposed site with garlic or onion in the spring. In the autumn, strawberry bushes can be transferred to this place after harvest.
Before transplanting, the soil must be deeply dug and fertilized. On one square meter of a plot add:
- 70 grams of superphosphates,
- 30 grams of ammonium nitrate,
- 30 grams of potassium salt.
For land shrinkage, the landing site is left for two weeks alone. After that, professional gardeners recommend disinfecting the ground with an antiseptic composition. To do this, take 10 liters of water and add 3 tbsp. l of vegetable oil, 2 tbsp. l wood ash, 2 tbsp. l of vinegar, 2 tbsp. lt's soap. This solution is treated the ground before planting berry rosettes.
Strawberry Breeding Technology
The whole process is built on a sequence of actions. To say exactly how to properly transplant strawberries in the fall, you must first consider step by step instructions:
- Cultivation is carried out in cloudy weather. Well, if immediately after the work done it will rain. It is permissible to land directly on wet ground. In the ground prepared in advance, grooves are made at a distance of 35 cm from one hole to another. Between rows leave a distance of half a meter.
- The depth of the fossa should allow the root system to lie free. The growth point is not recommended to fall asleep with soil. The recess to the brim is filled with water so that the edges of the roots do not dry out.
- Choose a seedling with a well-developed root system. It must have at least five leaves. For disinfection of the root system, use the Epin or Fitosporin products. Then they make a talker of dung, water and clay and lower the roots there for a short time. Then the bush is set in the hole, straightening the roots, carefully sprinkled them with earth. Top soil slightly rammed.
- After planting all the bushes begin to watering. If the root system is exposed, it must be covered with earth. Above the landings, soil mulching with straw or sawdust. In the case of cultivation in sunny weather, the bushes on top cover with burdock leaves or other materials that let the air through.
Breeding "mustache" and dividing the root
It is permissible to propagate strawberry bushes not only with the help of mustache seasonals, but also by dividing the root. Bezusaya strawberry produces sockets from the root. Shrub usually grows by August. During this period, it is permissible to dig and divide into several parts. In this way, about ten new plants can be obtained from one bush. Young bushes in the fall will be able to develop the root system and lay flower buds.
Outline uterine bushes recommended during fruiting. At this time, you can see which plants really produce a rich harvest. As a label, it is desirable to use a wooden or plastic peg of bright color.
After completion of fruiting, it is necessary to spud the selected plants with fresh humus or compost. This is required for the rapid formation of a strong root system. For high-quality engraftment in the new place you will need to observe irrigation mode. If the weather is sunny, then drip irrigation or a sprinkling method should be used.
For places rooting outlets require careful monitoring. During the period of the formation of the root system, it is required to moisten the soil, pour periodically humus and compost, loosen the ground in places where the whiskers grow.
Features care after cultivation
To preserve the transplanted number of seedlings requires proper care for them. They need regular watering, loosening of the soil, weeding, treatment from pests. In the absence of rain in the first week after transplanting, watering is carried out every other day. Gradually reduce the frequency of watering.
The newly formed mustache on young bushes is cut off so that the socket does not spend power in vain. In case of approaching frosts, the plants are covered with a special material. Before the winter period make potash-phosphorus fertilizer. Experienced gardeners recommend bringing under the roots:
- Wood ash. It contains the necessary amount of potassium, phosphorus, as well as copper, zinc, iodine, boron, calcium. In the case of using dry matter on the soil surface, the roots will not receive optimal nutrition. To make a root make a solution of 10 liters of water and 300 g of ash. Leave the resulting liquid for 4 days. After this time, under each bush make a liter of infusion.
- Superphosphate. The substance is poured boiling water and leave for a day, stirring the solution periodically. Under each root on the second day make one liter of the resulting liquid.
- The combined mixture. Take 20 g of nitroammofoski, 30 g of potassium sulfate, 250 g of wood ash and add 10 liters of water. Leave the mixture to insist during the day and make under each root of 500 ml on the second day.
To protect the root system from burns, only pre-moistened soil is watered with ready-mixed mixtures. If the transplant technology is followed, the plants will root well in the winter. In the spring young bushes will give a rich harvest.
Typically, yield is reduced four years after the start of fruiting. Berries become smaller and lose their initial taste. To preserve a rich harvest, it is necessary to regularly renew the soil and remove old bushes from the beds. For transplanting taken two-year bushes. If young seedlings collected color in the fall, the flower stalks should be removed.
Terms for transplanting in spring
Spring terms are considered to be the worst, since they lead to low plant yields.
This is due to the duration of the harvesting of seedlings and the violation of the optimal timing of strawberry transplantation.
However, with the advent of the ability to keep the seedlings in the refrigerator (frigo), they began to practice more often the spring terms of strawberry transplantation.
It should be remembered that the early spring will be the optimal dates, but it is very important not to miss them:
- in the conditions of the south of the Russian Federation it is mid-end of March
- in the middle lane - the beginning-middle of April.
With the given time of transplantation, it is possible to achieve a greater survival of the plants and the yield of the plantation as a whole.
Strawberry transplant in summer
Transplanting strawberries in the summer to a new place makes it possible to save time to wait for the harvest and get an additional crop of the predecessor, after harvesting which strawberries are planted.
Landing dates in summer are from the beginning to the middle of June (it is not too hot yet) and at the end of August (when the heat gradually begins to subside).
Summing up, it should be said that the best landing period, traditionally - autumn:
- plants suffer less from heat and, therefore, do not need the same abundant irrigation as in summer,
- the survival rate of transplanted plants is greater
- the plants themselves are healthier and more productive in terms of yield.
After which you can and after which you can not plant strawberries?
Strawberry is a very soil-demanding crop that quickly causes soil fatigue. It is not compatible with all cultures. A list of those that are not suitable for her predecessors and those that are suitable, we publish below.
You can plant strawberries after:
- Legumes (peas, chickpeas, any plants of the legume family),
- Late cabbage
- Winter cereals (wheat, barley),
- Pre-treated area, half a year or a year contained in the form of weeds.
- Cucumber and tomato
- Strawberries after strawberries.
The better to plant strawberries - by dividing the bush or mustache
Speaking about how strawberries should be transplanted in autumn or summer, we should mention two interesting ways known to every gardener. The first is the transplant of strawberries by dividing the bush. And the second is a mustache.
Is it possible to cut strawberry leaves when transplanting in the fall? On the one hand, this should not be done - this agro-plant causes the plant more stress and instead of increasing the leaf mass and the root part, it spends energy on laying the stem and leaves grown from scratch.
On the other hand, which adheres to the majority of both gardeners and amateur gardeners, the removal of excess, too thickened leaves is simply necessary. This is due to the danger of gray rot due to high humidity under the canopy of leaves. In this case, periodic pruning will contribute to a more abundant harvest.
How to choose seedlings?
Seedlings come in a variety of categories. It is customary to divide it into the highest, first and second.
The highest category, as a rule, is used for subsequent reproduction, these are mother plants, from which the first and second categories are then obtained. Sometimes, if the declared plants correspond to the required characteristics (the number of main and adventitious roots, the size of the roots, their diameter, the presence and number of leaves), then the highest category of the highest is obtained.
How to choose seedlings? Very simple. To do this, it is necessary to examine the leaves for the presence of fungal and viral diseases (blotches, powdery mildew, other pathogens), as well as to inspect the roots for foreign formations (in case of black root cancer, small “bullets” appear on the root system, the roots turn black and gradually dry out).
Plants should have a fresh, healthy look. This means sufficient foliage (2-3 sockets with 3-6 leaves in each), the presence of an extensive root system (copious amounts of roots running in bunches), and, of course, not broken stalks.
The right choice of seedlings is a guarantee of a good harvest.
At the first stage, the soil is prepared; we have examined it above. These recommendations are applicable to all household plots of any zone of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus.
The second stage will be the harvesting of plants by dividing the bush. Shrub gently digging in and the horns are separated from each other, preferably without removing the ground from the roots and without injury to both the lower and upper parts of the plant (this can lead to a deterioration in survival rate and as a result, low yields).
The third stage - directly landing. It lies in the fact that the plants are gently placed in the planting holes (beds or crests) on the root neck (middle of the stem, 1-1.5 cm before the beginning of the roots), then covered with earth and compacted the root zone of the earth with their fingers, carefully pressing them on the soil . This is necessary to ensure that after irrigation the land is less settled, and with it the plant also has to sink less.
The fourth stage, included by some in the transplant - strawberry care after transplanting. We will tell about it below.
Summing up, it should be said that for all regions the best planting dates will be autumn (September-October), all stages of planting are important for successful growth and development, and plant care is no less important than a correctly chosen assortment or a well-chosen part of the plot.
Watering is obligatory, as it depends on them yield. In the absence of these, additional stress is created, which impairs fructification, at least twice.
Speaking about which method of transplanting is best - with a mustache or a bush dividing, we note that the mustache will be faster, but with a bush dividing it will be more qualitative and as a result, the plants will get a greater pace in development. Plants should be transplanted into ridges or ridges, observing all the requirements of agricultural engineering for growing strawberries.
In this article, we looked at when and how to transplant strawberries in the fall to a new place, as well as when to do it in the summer and spring. We hope the information will be useful to you.
When is it better to transplant strawberries in autumn or spring?
Strawberries are transplanted in both spring and summer-autumn period.
When planting takes into account such factors:
- Land for spring transplantation is prepared in autumn, and 2 weeks is enough for autumn planting. If the soil has not been prepared since last year, then it is better to transfer the transplant to a later date, that is, summer or autumn, depending on the region.
- In spring, saplings are weakened after a long winter. By autumn, the plants give strong planting material that allows you to grow healthy plants, giving a good harvest.
- When transplanting strawberries in spring, the first crop is harvested one year after planting. Plants planted in the autumn, already next spring, delight their berries, which makes this planting more attractive than the spring.
In different regions, the time of transplanting strawberries in spring varies greatly. Because of the temperature characteristics of the climate, the landing takes place from April to early June. It continues until the moment when the plants begin to throw out the buds. Then transplanting is suspended and continues only after the end of fruiting.
Transplanting strawberries in spring begins after the earth warms to a depth of more than 10 centimeters, otherwise the plants die. With a long descent of snow or late spring frosts, spring transfer is often postponed. In this case, it is better to plant strawberries in a new place in late summer or in autumn, when the earth is warmed up and more than a month remains before frosts.
When to transplant in the fall, in which month
When choosing the dates for strawberry transplantation, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of the region: the duration of the warm season, the frequency of precipitation, the onset of the first frost. In any region of Russia, strawberries are transplanted in open ground 1 month prior to the start of the first frost.
From the moment of transplantation, young bushes should have time to take root, grow stronger, in order to bring forth a bountiful harvest.
In outskirts of Moscow
In Moscow, strawberries are transplanted to a new place from August 15 to September 30.
Plants are planted both in open ground, and under agrofibre, black film.This planting allows you to continue to receive an earlier harvest of berries.
Landing dates may vary due to weather conditions in the current year. The main thing is that before the first frost plants have taken root, otherwise they will die.
The optimal time for transplanting strawberries in the Urals is the period from August 15 to September 15.
Plants are planted in different ways. Planting plants under a black film or agrofibre, an earlier harvest is taken in the spring (1.5-2 weeks ahead of time).
When planting strawberries in open ground, plants with frequent precipitation covered with a film.
In Siberia, strawberry transplantation takes place from late July to mid-August.
At a later planting, plants are planted under covering material or in a greenhouse.
How to transplant strawberries to a new place
Strawberry yield is growing due to the appearance on the bushes of new leaves, whiskers and flower stalks. After 3-4 years, the plant growth process stops, the number of berries decreases, they lose their taste and shrink. Over the years, the soil under strawberries is exhausted, diseases accumulate in it, and pests multiply.
To obtain a good crop of strawberries requires regular updating of the soil and the removal of old bushes from the beds.
For transplanting strawberries take 2-year-old bushes. Younger plants have not had time to get stronger, and the bushes of 3-4 years of age do not give a good harvest.
Strawberries are propagated with a mustache and dividing bushes.
Planting is done in open ground or under a black film or agrofibre.
In regions with unstable temperature indicators, seedlings are better planted under film or agrofibre, which protect plants from negative environmental factors.
From mid-June to July, strawberry bushes grow in mustache. For transplanting strawberries with a mustache, healthy, strong bushes with a strong root system, developed leaves and pith are chosen.
On the mother bushes, the strongest whiskers are left, growing closest to the mother bush. Other flower stalks are cut so that the plants do not spend their energy on the development of new bushes. The whiskers, if they did not take root, are covered with earth and, when 3-5 leaves appear, they are transplanted to a new place.
For planting strawberries, a light, non-flooded area with loamy and slightly acidic soil is selected.
- If in the area of peat land per 1 square meter of beds, 1 bucket of river sand and 1 bucket of earth are brought in.
- A bucket of clay dust, 5 kilograms of rotted leaf litter, 5 kilograms of humus, compost or peat is put on the sandy area.
- In the clay soil is added 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of peat and 1 bucket of rotted humus.
- With high acidity of the soil, wood ash or dolomite flour is introduced into the ground.
The best precursors for strawberries are onions, garlic, legumes, grains, beets and carrots. Bad prior cultures are eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, physalis and potatoes.
Plot for strawberries prepared for 1.5-2 weeks for planting. In the land cleared of weeds and roots, complex fertilizers, steamed sawdust or rotted humus are introduced. The soil is dug up to a depth of 25 centimeters.
Before planting strawberries, 10–15 kilograms of rotted humus, a glass of wood ash, 25 grams of potassium chloride, 40 grams of superphosphate are put into the soil per square meter.
The soil is once again dug up, leveled with a rake and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
If the plot allows, then the best scheme for planting strawberries is one-line. Bushes in this case land in 1 row, in increments of 25-30 centimeters. Row spacing equals 80 centimeters. This planting plan simplifies the care and access to strawberries from 2 sides at harvest time. Appearing mustaches further make landing more dense.
Caring for such plantings is more laborious, but with frequent dressings, crop yield does not decrease. Whiskers are removed after this cultivation.
On the prepared garden beds are broken. Their depth should be equal to the length of the root system of plants.
Planting material is inspected for damage. Bad seedlings are discarded. Saplings in which roots longer than 10 centimeters are pruned. A good seedling should have 3-4 developed leaves, a strong, developed root collar with a diameter of more than 6 millimeters and a dense core.
In order to avoid diseases, the roots of seedlings are placed for 1 hour in a solution of Aktar and Previkur.
Prepared wells filled with water. After the water is absorbed, the bushes are placed in the holes, the roots are straightened.
Strawberries are once again watered and mulched with dry soil or rotted humus, peat, and steamed sawdust.
At the time of harvesting strawberries, the bushes are selected, which will later be used for dividing into individual seedlings. Selected bushes, after harvesting, pile up with compost or rotted humus.
At the same time, plant roots begin to actively develop, which later contributes to the rapid rooting of seedlings after transplanting them to a new place.
The overgrown plants are dug along with the earthy clod. The earth is carefully separated from the roots. Bushes are placed in a container with water. When disintegrating the horns are separated from each other with a sharp, disinfected knife.
The roots are dipped in a clay talker, consisting of 3 parts of clay, 1 part of manure and water (water is added to the creamy state of the mixture).
Prepared seedlings laid out on the holes. The roots are covered with earth, lightly tamped and watered with settled water from a watering can. The soil around the plants is lined with a layer of vegetable mulch or dry earth.
Care for young plantings
Care activities for transplanted strawberries include regular watering, weed control, pests, loosening the soil around the bushes.
When watering plants, water should not fall on the foliage. The first 7-10 days after planting seedlings watered daily. Then watering is reduced to 2-3 times a week. The land should be moist, but not wet, as overflow can lead to the death of strawberries. On a large area of planting can be organized drip irrigation, which simplifies the care of plants.
If the beds were fertilized before transplanting, the strawberries do not need additional feeding.
To shelter the bushes for wintering, needles, peat, sawdust, rotted humus, straw, needles are used. Cover only the roots of plants.
When snow falls, the bushes are naturally protected from frost with the help of a snow crust. In the absence of snow cover, the plants are covered with agrofibre or spruce, pine spruce branches.
In the spring, after the snow melts, the shelter is removed, the old and frozen leaves are cut off, giving the plants new strength to grow.
How can you feed the bush immediately after planting
During transplanting the plant in the autumn, it is necessary to help the youngsters take root, that is, they need to be fed. This will help organic and mineral fertilizers in the granules. Will give strength to young mustache and compost.
The best period for handling strawberries is considered to be the first month of autumn, as this is the most optimal humidity and air temperature.
How to transplant strawberries in the fall: video
By observing the rules and conditions of the summer-autumn transplant of strawberries with mustache and seedlings, one can significantly save energy and get the maximum yield of berries in the next year.
Having planted strawberries in the fall, she manages to get stronger and in the spring gives her first berries. Such a transplant is suitable for almost all regions, which makes it more preferable than spring planting.