Making rabbit skins at home, step-by-step instructions

At home, this operation will require certain chemicals, a sharp knife and salt. Of course, from the first time, it is rarely possible for someone to perfectly decorate the skin: the fur will crawl in scraps or the skin will not be blown away. Do not despair - just following the recommendations from this article, you will eventually learn how to easily cope with the manufacture of rabbit skins.

With a dry rabbit, removing fat from the muscles is much more difficult.

After removing the skin after slaughter of the rabbit, you need to immediately remove the fat and muscle remaining on it. It is most convenient to scrape off the muscles and fat with a knife, pulling the still-warm skin on a prepared wooden block.

When scraping the blade of the knife should be at a right angle to the skin, should be scraped from tail to head. You can remove muscle and fat with your hands, collecting the layer in a circle.

Keep in mind that with a dry rabbit skin, removing fat from the muscles is much more difficult.

about the manufacture of rabbit skins

If you are not going to immediately do the manufacture, preserve the skin. Stretch it with fur inside for drying on a special rule made in the form of the letter A from a wooden board.

The horizontal crossbar must be movable so that you can narrow or expand the rule to the required size. It is recommended to fasten the lower end of the rabbit skin, otherwise it will gather in folds, and the fur in the folds will foil and crawl out.

Do not leave the rabbit skins unfolded even for a day - they quickly rot. In the cold, they also should not be stored.

Place a rule with a stretched sandpaper in a ventilated room, the temperature of which is not higher than +30. In a damp room, the skin will become moldy, and in the sun or near the stove it will become brittle.

Try not to store long rabbit skins, so that they are not spoiled by the mole.

If you need to accumulate more skins for sewing a fur product, put them in a clean, tightly closed box in a cool room, additionally putting bags of moth products into it.

Try not to keep long rabbit skins, so that they do not spoil the mole

Step-by-step instructions on how to skin a rabbit

The process of making skins of rabbits includes several specific steps that must be performed in strict sequence.

Solution for soaking mix from 1 liter of water, 30 g of borax, 2 g of carbolic acid (in crystalline form), 50 g of salt. Other antiseptics can be used: sodium bisulfite (2 g), furatsilin (1-2 tablets). If the skins were already well salted during preservation, a smaller amount of salt is added to the solution.

The solution is poured into a sufficiently capacious stainless steel container, glass or enameled container. Putting the skins in the solution, put a heavy object on them so that they do not float up and are covered with water for at least two centimeters. In the process of soaking, from time to time, mix the skins for more uniform treatment with the solution.

In the process of soaking, from time to time, mix the skins for more uniform treatment with the solution.

Soaking process can last from six hours to four days. Skins that have been preserved recently are soaked faster, and those that have been poorly cleaned of fat or dried too quickly, soak worse and longer. Determine the degree of readiness of the skin can be on the following grounds:

  • hair firmly in the skin, not stretching,
  • The core was softened, well wrinkled anywhere.

Carefully removing the remaining water from the soaked skins, and wiping them dry, you can do the removal of the inner layers (mezzanine) and loosening the fibrous tissue of the skin so that the subsequent treatment with chemicals is more effective.

First of all, the remnants of muscles and fat are removed from the inner surface of the core with a sharp knife, then the core is then stripped to the same thickness over the whole area of ​​the skin. After that, the blunt part of the knife conducts a breakdown of the core from the tail to the head, and also from the tail to the floors. Do the work carefully, conscientiously, but do not get carried away too much, otherwise you risk exposing the roots of the hair on the skin.

Carefully removing the remaining water from the soaked skins, and wiping them dry, you can do the removal of the inner layers

After churning, rabbit skins need to be washed and degreased. Prepare a degreasing solution from one liter of water and 4 g of laundry detergent. Throwing the skins by hand, you will notice how the skin is white and began to creak on your fingers, like freshly washed hair.

Now put the rabbit skins in clean water, rinse and put in a container with soapy water (about 10 g of soap per liter of warm water). Lather wool to a clean squeak and rinse again.

After washing the pads, hang them, smash them with a stick to shake off the water and walk around with a dry rag.


To make the skins durable, they should be treated with a solution containing acid: add 30 g of salt and 15 ml of acetic acid per liter of water. Immerse the rabbit skins in the solution with the flesh out and mix them more often. Pickling can last from several hours to a couple of days, but it is better to underexpose the skins in solution than to overdo it.

You can determine the readiness of the rabbit's skin by breaking it down into a “sack”, removing the pelt from the solution, bending the core and squeezing the fold, and a “sushinka” (white stripe) should appear when it opens. If it has not disappeared within five seconds, it means that the skin has ripened. In the finished rabbit skin, you can easily pull out hairs in the groin area, and the inner layer is separated by fingers.

It is advisable after laying for 20 minutes to put the rabbit skins in a solution of baking soda

After pickling the rabbit skins, it is necessary to wring out a little, turn it out with fur and put it in a pile, and put some weight on top. The bed lasts from 12 hours to days. It is advisable to place the rabbit skins in a solution of baking soda after laying for 20 minutes, since there is still acid on them.

Due to tanning, the rabbit skin will shrink less, the skin will become more durable and resistant to water, and the fur will gain additional elasticity. For tanning you should not use oak broth - from it the skins of rabbits grow coarser. The bark from willow trees or from willow is best suited.

Boil the bark for 30 minutes in a saucepan, pour the solution separately, add 40 g of salt to it per liter of water, and cool. Consider that willow decoction not only paints the skin of the rabbit, but also fur, so you can not soak the skins entirely, but only apply the decoction with a brush on the skin core.

To impregnate with the tanning agent, fold the skins inside and leave for another day for bedding, and then dry, periodically removing them from the rule and stretching them in different directions.

When the skins are semi-dry and feel velvety to the touch, the skin should be treated with sandpaper to achieve optimal softness.

about the manufacture of rabbit skins at home

After tanning, fattening of the skins is carried out to give them greater ductility, strength and water resistance. Fatting is done with a mixture of cooked egg yolk with glycerin in equal proportions.

The fat mixture or solution is applied to the flesh and leave the skins to cure for several hours. After that, the rabbit skins are dried again, kneaded, the center of the skin rubbed with chalk so that it absorbs excess fat, and the fur is combed. With this, the rabbit skins are finished: ready-made skins are recommended to be stored in fabric bags of cotton or flax, but not in plastic bags!

How to make a rabbit skin at home?

The ancient clothing of primitive man were the skins. Therefore, one of the first professions that he had to master was their dressing.

By the way, the profession of the bogatyr Nikita from Russian epics was kozhemyak. His name was Nikita Kozhemyak.

Surely this work helped him to become strong and not to be afraid of the stinking breath of the fire-breathing Snake-Gorynych. These qualities are necessary for a specialist in dressing hides.

Clothing prehistoric man

Modern processing methods easier - chemistry helps. Now even at home you can produce high quality skins. This could be an idea for a small business or a good additional income.

If, for example, decide to breed rabbits, then you just need to learn how to make their skins. Consider the technology of this process.

Preparation of hides and preparation for dressing

Only the skin removed from the carcass must be cleaned of fat and meat residues. After cooling, it is plentifully sprinkled with kitchen neodated salt, which should absorb moisture from it. As a result, the skin should dry out and become a crunch. This process can take several days or even weeks. The skin prepared for storage should be dry to the touch and tough; it keeps its shape well.

Dressing hides at home begins with sorting. Sort them by size and thickness of the mid-layer layer into groups for ease of processing. All skins are weighed to accurately calculate the required amount of reagents for their manufacture.

After tanning, the skin should be thin and soft, and fur raw materials should not show signs of molting. The best quality products are obtained from the processing of animal skins aged 6 to 8 months.

After storage, dressing hides at home begins with soaking them in two stages. The first - for 4 hours in clear water. The second stage - up to 12 hours in an aqueous salt solution (20 g of salt per 1 liter of water). For 1 kg of hides, 8 liters of solution are taken for soaking. For only taken pair skins, it is enough to carry out only the first stage of soaking.

Skins after soaking become elastic, and their subcutaneous layer should be easily separated. If this does not occur, the aging of the hides in the salt solution is prolonged. With prolonged exposure to water, raw materials may begin to rot.

There is another solution - with the addition of antiseptics to prevent the reproduction in the water of putrefactive bacteria. For 10 liters of water, 500 g of iodized salt and 6 tablets of furacilin are required for such a solution.

Some experts to remove from the fur core and dirt are advised to add to the solution up to 2.5 g of detergent that does not contain biologically active substances.

Fleshing is the process of removing the subcutaneous fat layer. It is knocked down manually on a blunt brace or is carefully cut off on a sharp spit. This operation for thick-skinned hides can be performed with a sharp revolving disc knife.

Dressing hides at home at the stage of fleshing is carried out carefully. The subcutaneous layer with the remnants of adipose and muscular tissue is cut off superficially, in order not to hurt the hair follicles in the thickness of the skin.

Thick skins are allowed to be processed with cutting thickening at the base of the ridge. This process requires certain skills, as careless movement, especially when using sharp tools, can damage the integrity of the skin.

Cutting off the cores is usually carried out from the tail to the head, then, if necessary, remove a thick layer from the centerline to the edges, trying to achieve the same thickness of the entire skins.

In order for the manufacture of rabbit skins at home to be carried out in accordance with the technological process, the raw materials should be thoroughly washed after the fertilization stage, even if soaking detergent was added to the solution.

Washing is carried out in warm water with simple shampoo. It is allowed for more thorough laundering of greasy and highly polluted places to add special detergent for dishes to the water.

In the old days, this process was carried out using ordinary soap. To prepare the solution on the grate, rub 10 g of soap and dissolve it in 1 l of water, add soda ash (0.5 g) and wipe the fur to a slight squeak of hair.

Dressing rabbit skins at home. Phased processing instruction with bran

The recipe composition is designed for processing 10 medium skins. To prepare the solution, boil 12 l of water and add 16 cups of oatmeal or barley bran for steaming for 1 hour. Separately, boil 15 liters of water, pour into a suitable plastic container, add 16 cups of salt there and mix well. Infusion bran strain off on the sieve, add to the container with saline.

After cooling down, carefully add acid to the tank to refill the batteries (3.5 cups) in a safe manner. After connecting all the components of the solution in the tank load the skins and incubate them for 40 minutes, constantly mixing. The skins are removed and rinsed with running water. To completely neutralize the acid, you can add baking soda to the water during the first rinse.

Skins hang for dripping and easy drying. After that, the mezdrovy layer is treated with hoofed oil until a light fatty deposit appears. For final drying, the skins are stretched on frames or grids with edges fixed.

Dressing hides at home: instructions for beginners

The method is based on the use of sour cow milk. Paired or previously soaked in water pelts rubbed with salt of a large fraction. They are placed mezdra inside the piles and leave for aging for three days. After that, the remnants of salt are removed, the skins are squeezed, knead and blend.

At the next stage, they are placed with fur inside in a suitable-sized container with peroxide (5-7 days) milk and left for 3 days for aging with periodic mixing of the solution. On one skin must be at least 1 l of sour milk. The readiness of the raw material is determined by the "dryer".

Subsequent processing: washing, tanning and fattening - are carried out using one of the already known methods.

Finishing operations

Fur raw materials prepared for sewing should have a beautiful lush look, hair - necessarily crumbly, leather - soft and plastic. For such a result, the dressed skins are ground with fine sandpaper or abrasive sticks. To make the hair shine and degrease the fur is treated with sawdust hardwood. For fluffiness the pile is combed.

Dressing animal hides at home is a laborious operation. It is hard to achieve a good result from the first time, but after acquiring the necessary skills you can independently prepare high-quality material for sewing fur products, avoiding its acquisition from third-party manufacturers.

How to choose a rabbit skin for dressing

For the manufacture of suitable skin ten-month rabbit. Such an animal already has a fur coat formed. This allows you to remove the remnants of meat and fat from the dermis without damaging the rabbit fur. The process of primary processing of the skin is called mezdenie.

After the skin has been removed from the carcass, it must be turned inside out and examined. If the core is blue, the rabbit is sent to the face during the molt.

When nudging such skins there is a risk of damaging the fur cover. It forms bald spots that affect the quality and price of the finished material.

Rabbit skin meats

There are two methods for the primary processing of the skin. In the first case, dressing begins 2 hours after slaughter. With this method, the skin and fur are dry, which facilitates meating.

The second method is the interstitial after drying and soaking. With this processing technology, the skin is left for a day in a room with an air temperature of 24 ° C. Then it is placed in warm water, the temperature of which is 35 ° C, for 24 hours.

If the fur is of high quality, you can spend flesh 2 hours after slaughter, so you will save 48 hours.The manufacture of rabbit skins according to the second technology is used if there is a lot of blue on them.

For frying use a kitchen or hunting knife. Sharpening it is not necessary, as with a sharp knife it is easy to damage the dermis.

Remove the remnants of meat and fat need, starting with the rump and moving to the front of the skin. It is necessary to slightly cut the vein in the paw of the animal and remove the film from the dermis by hand, simultaneously cutting the meat with a knife.

Stages of dressing skins

In addition to primary processing, there are several stages of dressing pelts:

  • washing and degreasing fur,
  • pickling
  • tanning,
  • lift
  • drying
  • softening,
  • grinding

After fleshing, it is necessary to wash the fur and dermis in warm water at 38 ° C in order to dissolve the remaining fat. In 10 liters of water you need to add 10 g of washing powder and 10 g of dishwashing detergent.

Do the washing by hand, if there is a lot of blue on the skins, or you have torn the dermis during the entomination. It is necessary to erase twice - on fur, and having turned the skins inside out. After washing, the skins should creak, if this does not occur, the washing should be continued.

If the skins are of high quality, they are loaded into a washing machine for 30 minutes in the “Economy” mode with a spin function. After washing, you can begin to pickle the skins.

Preparation of tanning solution

To prepare a tanning solution in 10 liters of water, 500 g of salt and 30 g of chrome tanning agent are added. Such a solution can be replaced with a decoction of oak or walnut leaves (250 g leaves per 1 liter of water). The broth is cooled to a temperature of 38 ° C, salt is added and the skins are immersed in it.

To neutralize the acid, 2 hours after dipping the skins into the tanning solution, add baking soda to it in the proportion of 4 g / l.

After tanning, the skins are again washed and placed under the press for a day. Then they are dried in a room for two days with the fur outside, turned out and dried over the dermis for three days. During drying, the gray areas of the dermis stretch by hand.

By the end of the drying, the skin should be as hard as shoe leather.

Final stages of dressing

The next stage in the manufacture of rabbit skin at home is softening. To do this, each skin is treated with a solution of glycerin and water, which is prepared in a ratio of 1: 4. After wetting, the dermis is kneaded in the palms.

To wet the dermis, use a spray, repeat the procedure every 30 minutes for 1.5-2 hours.

Dressing rabbit skins at home is a simple but long process. The last step of the manufacture is grinding. To do this, pass on the sandpaper sandpaper.

For bleaching and better removal of the pellets, the skin can be pre-sprinkled with chalk.

Rabbit Skins Tools

Rabbit fur should be slaughtered when its weight has already reached 3-4 kg. Usually the mass of the rabbit is 60 - 65% of the mass of the whole body. It is best to work with the skins from November, when the animals have already molted.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the following equipment for dressing hides:

  • Sharp knife.
  • Some chemicals.
  • Salt.
  • Rules for drying skins.

The latter are also of different types:

  • Adjustable.
  • Made in the form of forks from the rails.
  • Made from one board.
  • Rogulin adapted for these purposes from bushes or trees.


After the rabbit is slaughtered, you must remove the skin. As a rule, remove the skin in hosiery. To do this, the animal is tied behind the hind legs to a stick and a sharp incision is made near the hock joints, further along the inner side of the tibia and along the perineum.

Now you need to cut the ears, tail and front feet to the wrist. Grab the skin along the hips and pull over. Then gently remove it from the front paws and head, so that it is easy to make a cut around the eyes, nostrils and mouth.

Be careful: during this process, do not stretch the skin, otherwise the fur will become rare.

Soaking in water and solutions

This is not a rabbit but it is done the same way.

After you have removed the skin and removed the remnants of muscle and fat from it, it must be placed in a special solution or water.

Dishes for these purposes should be enameled. Put the skins there and fill them with water. You can use the following calculations: for 1 kg of skins take 3 liters of water.

In the water, the skins can lie for several days, but it must be remembered that the fluid periodically needs to be changed.

To avoid the multiplication of different bacteria, the skins can be soaked in special solutions.

Here are some recipes:

  • Dissolve 50 g of salt in a liter of water.
  • Take 0.5 - 1 g of formalin and dilute in a liter of water.
  • 2 g of zinc chloride add to 1 liter of water.
  • Dissolve 2 g of sodium bisulfite in a liter of water.
  • 50 ml of oak leaves, eucalyptus and willow leaves can also be added to the solution.

After the rabbit skin has been washed off, rinse it with water and wait until all the water has drained.

Now it is necessary to turn the pelt of the fur side inward and thus put it on the deck.

Cheating passes so

Take a steel knife or an iron brush, moving from the tail to the head and from the ridge to the stomach, scrape off the fat, the film.


To degrease the skin you will need to prepare another solution. For these purposes, take 25 grams of toilet soap and dissolve them in a liter of water. Rinse the skins in this solution and wait until all the water is drained.

There is another way to degrease the skin. To do this, it should be fixed on the rule and with the blunt side of the knife to bend all fat from the surface.

Now the skin can be wiped with a cloth slightly moistened with gasoline or sawdust of hardwood trees.

There are several technologies for the manufacture of rabbit skins. Porridge is considered a classic way. It makes the skins stronger.

Prepare a mixture of oatmeal or rye flour and a liter of hot water in an enamel pot. Mix well the mixture and add 7 g of yeast, a pound of baking soda, 30 g of salt.

Cool the solution and put the skins in it skins up. Leave them for two days, but do not forget to periodically mix the skins with the solution.

When on the surface you see white scurf and feel the smell of bread - the skins can be pulled out and let the water drain.


This stage should not be missed, since it will be difficult for you to work further with the pelt. Acid may remain in the nap and must be neutralized. To do this, 1.5 kg of baking soda should be dissolved in a liter of water and hold the skins in this solution for 30 to 60 minutes.

You can perform this process in two different ways:

Chrome tanning. Prepare 7 grams of chromic alum and dissolve them in one liter of water. In this solution, the skins should be kept for one day, often stirring. Then you should make a neutralization of the same recipe.

Tanning tanning. Fill the dishes with willow twigs and bark, but do not tamp. Fill all with water and boil for half an hour. Now drain the solution and add 50 g of salt per liter of water. Cool and only after that you can lower the skins for 1 - 4 days.

Here, too, the main thing is not to overdo it. You can check the readiness in this way: cut a piece in the groin area and look at the cut through a magnifying glass. If the yellowish color (tannin tanning gives it) penetrated the skin well, the process can be stopped.

Now put the skins under the press for two days.

This is a very important procedure. Its goal is to make the skin elastic, durable and soft. To do this, you need to prepare a water-fat mixture and apply it to the skin with a tampon.

Here are some recipes for mixtures that can be used for fattening:

  • Take one egg yolk and glycerin in equal proportions and beat well.
  • Cut 50 grams of household soap into small pieces and dissolve them in half-liters of boiling water and, while stirring, add 0.5 liters of any fat of animal origin. At the end add 5 - 10 ml of ammonia.

After applying the mixture on the skin, put the skins in with the fur inside and leave for 4 hours.

As soon as the skins are slightly dried, they must be stretched and stretched in different directions.

Drying rabbit skin

Now the core should be rubbed with chalk or tooth powder and rubbed with emery paper. It will give it a white look.

At the end you will only have to knock out the skins and comb the fur.

Useful tips

  • During soaking, the skins should float freely in the tank.
  • In the water for soaking add detergent, so you do not need to wash the skins. Put 1.5 kg per liter of water.
  • When degreasing with a knife, it should be held at an angle of 90 degrees to the skin.
  • After degreasing, all cuts on the skin need to be sewn with white thread number 10. Make sure that you have a seam butt joint.
  • Remember that if you perederzhat skins during pickling, you can significantly damage the hair.
  • If you cook a pickle from table vinegar, then for 650 ml of water, you must take 350 ml of 12% vinegar. If vinegar is 9%, then take 533 ml of water and 466 ml of vinegar.

Watch the video how to dress a rabbit

Where to begin

There are three criteria that help to get a good start with rabbit skins:

  • breed. The most expensive material give the rabbits the white giant chinchilla, black brown. These hybrids are specially derived to obtain a thick, high-grade fur. Gray giants and similar breeds are suitable for skins, when when growing it is possible to obtain a dense pile. The main trick in this business is enriched with vitamins nutrition,
  • slaughter time. It is best to dress up the skin of young animals 8-9 months, when the cover is fully formed. The killing is carried out from November to March, taking into account molting. With the unfinished process of changing the undercoat, the pile will crawl out of the skin and the material will quickly become bald. Adults are slaughtered after reaching the desired weight (3-5 kg, depending on the breed). Old rabbits are not used because of the roughness and brittle hairs,
  • slaughter method. To preserve the fur do not use methods with physical damage to the skin and an abundance of blood. Also try to avoid the electric version - it can singe and weaken the pile. Preferred air emboli, the French method. Blow with a stick or edge of the palm behind the ears is used with confidence in the ability to avoid hematomas.

Fur rabbit breed Chinchilla

Get quality meat and skin can only be following the rules of slaughter. The process can cause unpleasant emotions in theory, but is not so difficult in practice. No breeder who wants to sell rabbit products can do without it. In this article you will learn how to score a rabbit.

Experienced farmers advise not to neglect these points, since they directly affect the profitability of the business.

How to remove the skin?

Before tanning, skin with fur should be removed from the mascara. The procedure often causes difficulties for beginners. With experience, it ceases to be a problem, it begins to turn out quickly and accurately. It is best to do right after the bleeding is completed, until the rabbit is numb.

The canvas should go whole, so the animal is "stripped" in a hosiery. The carcass is suspended by the hind legs on a strut head down. Further act in steps:


It is a set of sequentially executed operations. The quality of the fur will depend on the careful and correct implementation of all steps.

  • The preparatory stage - conservation.
  • Soaking (soaking).
  • Cheeky skin
  • Degreasing.
  • Pickling.
  • Lay down and neutralization.
  • Tanning.
  • Fatty.
  • Drying and kneading.

Consider each operation separately.

Preparatory stage - conservation

If you will not make the skin immediately, then it must be mothballed. That is, save until the time comes to process it. It happens like this.

After slaughter, the skin is removed by a stocking. It is impossible to leave it for a long time in its unopened form (it may rot.) Store as follows:

  • the stocking is turned inside with fur,
  • stretched on the rule,
  • The lower end is secured so that the stocking does not wrinkle.

The rule can be made by yourself from two wooden bars with the size of 20x50 mm. They are cut off at the edge and tied with ordinary metal tape. It turns out like a linen tongs. A movable wedge is installed between the bars, which pushes them apart to the width of the rabbit stocking.

The skins on the rules are dried in a well-ventilated area, but not in the sun or near heaters and radiators. Otherwise they will become brittle. On the side of the core, they are rubbed with salt. Dried skins are stored in a cool place.


To be able to proceed with the dressing of dried skins, they should be soaked. To do this, prepare a special solution. The proportions of the components are as follows:

40 to 50 grams

2 tab. Furatsilina

Laundry detergent containing soda ash

For all skin dressing operations, only warm water is used (35-40 degrees).

The total volume of water in relation to the weight of the skins is:

  • 9 parts - water,
  • 1 part - the weight of the skins

The soaking process can last six hours and four days. But if soaking is delayed, then after 12 hours the solution is changed.

Willingness of the skin for further work is determined by the degree of softness of the core.

Skins coming into the dressing immediately after removal, do not require soaking. Their processing can begin with medrovki.

It is carried out with two objectives:

  • first, remove the subcutaneous fat layer and all organic residues,
  • secondly, loosen the dermis.

After this operation, the skin will become susceptible to the effects of chemicals during further processing.

It begins with the removal of muscle residues and fat scraping. To remove excess, use a sharp knife, and for breaking down and loosening the dermis - blunt. He does not cut the core, but only drives her. Simultaneously with the cutting of the core, you need to press on the skin. Then fat will come out of the mass. It can be collected and used later for fattening.

Fattening begins from the tail along the ridge and towards the head. If the skin is a pair (just taken), then the disdia can be done with your hands. To do this, at the tail with a knife a little bit to the edge of the skin, move forward a couple of centimeters, insert the fingers there and then everything is done with your hands.

With this method of removal, no metal objects on the skin are not affected. Stringing and pressing to extrude fat is made only by hand. In this case, there is no danger of damaging the skin and overdoing the scraping.

Mezdrovka is not an easy procedure. But the result justifies the effort - the skin becomes absolutely clean.

How is the manufacture of rabbit skins at home?

Not every rabbit grower turns out to find a specialist who can properly process the skin.

Therefore, there is a need for self-dressing rabbit hides at home and the majority asks the question of how to cut the rabbit skin correctly. And it is about this will be discussed in the article.

How to remove the skin?

In order to properly remove the skin, this procedure must begin with hanging carcasses by the hind legs at chest level. The skin of the animal must be removed from the hind legs. To do this, make cuts around the extremities, and then cut from paw to paw along the groin line and remove the tail.

Then you should remove the skin, pulling it down to the head, incising the muscles in the places of their joints with the skin. When it comes to the head, it is necessary to make cuts around the ears and eyes in order to easily remove the skin.

Slaughter processing after slaughter

After the fur has been removed from the animal, the first thing to do is to fasten the skin on a wooden board, and then remove the remnants of muscle and fat, scraping them off with a sharp knife starting from the tail.

During this process, the knife must be held at a right angle. You can also remove leftovers and hand, making frequent circular movements.

Conservation and preservation

Provided there is no time before scrubbing a rabbit's skin, it can be preserved at home. To do this, you will need a special rule on which the fur will be attached, it should resemble beech “A” in shape.

The crossbar in this design must be movable so that the width of the rule can be adjusted to the desired parameters. But you can fix the skin and on the board, while it must be tightened so that there are no folds, as in places of folds wool can fall out. After the skin has been fixed it needs to be salted.

The rule must be placed in a room with a temperature of about 25 ° C and good ventilation. If you are going to accumulate a large number of skins, it is best to store them in a dense box, in a room with a low temperature and low humidity.

Laying down and neutralization

We take out the skins from the pickling solution. Then

  • slightly squeeze,
  • we twist the fur out,
  • stack up
  • top put the press.

Some use tile as a press. On the bed of sandpaper are up to days.

Preparation of solution for neutralization

After bedding they are neutralized. Proportion of solution

The duration of neutralization is a maximum of 30 minutes. If you add less soda, then you need to lengthen the time spent in the solution to one hour. Being in a neutralizing solution discourages the smell of acetic acid.

Tanning treatment gives skin

  • plastic,
  • strength,
  • wear resistance
  • elasticity.

As tannins, it is better to use willow bark. Oak bark for rabbit skins is not recommended. From him they grow rude. Willow gives the skin a creamy shade. Tanning solution on a natural basis is prepared as follows:

  • For half an hour in a saucepan boil the bark,
  • On one liter of this boiled solution take 40 grams of salt.

In the chemical method of tanning, chrome alum is used instead of bark. Proportions are

Chrome alum is dissolved in very hot water, almost in boiling water. Bred alum in a small amount of water.

Chromopotassium alum used for tanning leather

While the water is clear, salt is dissolved in it. Then diluted chrome alum is poured into it.

For lowering into the tanning solution, rabbit skins are turned upside down. In it, they carefully straightened, especially the tips. In this case, everything is evenly soaked.

The time of tanning depends on the method of its implementation - natural or chemical. When using chrome alum tanning time is from 12 to 24 hours. If you use willow bark, the process will take much longer.

To skins evenly blew, they must be periodically stirred. But they do it less often than during pickling - once every two or three hours.

After the tanning time has expired, the skins are taken out, straightened and placed under a maturation press for 24 hours.

After the press, they need to be stretched on the rules, where they will dry out for the next operation with them - fattening. Dry it for five hours.

The purpose of this operation is to get softer and more waterproof skin. You can use animal fat

Mutton is better not to use, as it quickly hardens.

The proportions of the fat mixture

Application Method

Not hot received substance put on the chased skins. Enjoy the usual paint brush. It is easier to apply when the skin is on the rule. Take care not to stain the fur tips. Do it quickly, but neatly. The fatty substance hardens very quickly. When cooling for more convenient application, it must be reheated.

Fat well to spend the evening. Then in the morning the fat is well absorbed into the clean skin. Then the rabbit skin is cut through the stomach and finally dried.

Drying and kneading

Soft, clean, pleasant to the touch rabbit skins

Dried approximately 12 hours. Skins should be periodically removed from the rules and sip in different directions.

After drying, the skin is kneaded with hands, seeking its softness. As a result, hairs and bumps appear on the core. For cleaning use sandpaper zero or one. You can use pumice.

At the final stage of the massage brush comb the fur.

That's all - the rabbit skin has become soft, clean, pleasant to the touch. She's ready.

Dressing rabbit skins at home - detailed instructions

For fur breeding rabbits of certain breeds. But in order for the fur to be valued, the pelt of the animal must be carefully made.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to find a good specialist in this matter, so it is very important to know how to make the skins of rabbits at home.

And although the first time you, perhaps, not everything will turn out, but you should not despair. The main thing is to follow all recommendations consistently.

We analyze the stages of dressing rabbit skins.

The dressing of rabbit skins is a long process that takes place in several stages. Haste and carelessness he does not tolerate. The quality of the finished pelt depends on how correctly the necessary requirements have been met. As a result, the breeder gets a great fur, which can be used for sewing various products.

How to remove the skin?

In this case, without preliminary skills can not do. Beginners to produce raw materials correctly is quite difficult. But then everything happens quickly and without inadvertent damage to the skins. The skin, taken from the animal "stocking", allows you to "hoist" it on a special device - rule or a pig and make with it the most necessary manipulations.

  • Hanging up a rabbit upside down need to tie up the hind legs (and one can be), to part them.
  • Circular cuts are made with a knife just below the hock joints of the hind legs, cuts continue along the inner line of the legs, go into the perineum, where the incision is also made.
  • Cut off the ears, tail, and carpal joints of the front paws.
  • In the process of peeling off the skins, additional notches should be made in the area of ​​the eyes, ears, and nose, so that the skin can be easily separated from the carcass.
  • When the preparatory work is completed, a firm grip is made with both hands around the hips, and the skin is removed from top to bottom, towards the head.

The removed skin should not be thrown on the ground and left for a long time. If the raw material is not taken up immediately, in 1-2 days any sense will disappear, because it will be hopelessly flawed.

Why does the rabbit skin have to go through a long and tedious process? This allows you to make it soft, elastic and at the same time very durable, which allows it to be used for sewing various products.

And unburied skin will be destroyed by putrefactive bacteria and insects, because this is organic material. Yes, and the skin becomes like a "stone". It is important to start treatment before the bacteria begin the destructive process.

What tools and materials are used?

Prepare the necessary tools in advance. If something is not at hand, time will be lost, and the material may become unusable. You will need:

  • large capacity (considering that 3 liters of one or another solution or water is consumed for each skin),
  • rule or blank (a device that allows you to stretch and properly straighten organic material to perform the necessary manipulations, in the figure on the right),
  • knife or special device for fleshing,
  • chemical reagents (allow you to stop the process of decomposition and keep the fur in a beautiful form).

The work will be used vinegar: concentrated essence or table, so you should choose the recipes yourself, depending on what you have in stock. There are many options for processing the material and if one of them does not fit, you can easily pick up another. The main thing - to achieve a quality end result.

Processing steps

First, the raw materials need to be prepared: the soaking is done, then the fleshing and degreasing. After this, the skin is made more elastic and durable. Assists in this pickling or pickling, tanning, greasing. And finally, the finished material can only be dried and give it a beautiful appearance with your own hands (cosmetic measures).

Pair skin - This is the one that has just been removed from a dead animal. It is elastic and soft. It is important to preserve this property of the material in the future, so that under optimal storage conditions, the skins can be applied after a few weeks or months when they are useful. To do this, they need to be processed using special tools and tools.

Removal of dirt and blood

Not everything always turns out to be extremely accurate, and blood stains or dirt can get on the raw material. Before making a shake, the workpiece should be cleaned. For this, a solution is prepared: 10 g dissolve in 1 liter of water.

soda ash and 100 gr. household soap. In this liquid, you need to "wash" each of the skins. This amount of solution for several skins may not be enough. Approximate fluid volume per 1 kg. organic raw materials - 4 liters.

The solution should be warm, but not exceed a temperature of 40 C.

Within 1-3 days the skins should be in a tank with liquid. The material is placed under the load so that every mm is exposed to moisture. Due to this, the skins reach the same condition as the fresh baths. To prevent bacteria from multiplying in a humid environment, salt (50 g per 1 liter of water) and antiseptic preparations are added to the water. It may be:

  • formalin (1 g per 1 liter of water),
  • sodium bisulfite (in a liter of water, 2 grams of this substance must be dissolved),
  • norsulfazol (2 tablets dissolve in 1 liter of water) and others.

Skins should reach such a state so as not to float, but freely “cruise” in the water. It is important not to overdo them, otherwise the fur will be damaged. How to understand that shake can be completed? To do this, in the groin area, you can try to pull out the hairs. If they are easily separated, it is time to stop sweating.

Mezdra - This is the subcutaneous layer of fiber. The more successfully removed the muscle fibers, fat particles, chaff, organic residues, the thinner and softer the base. To perform the procedure, a rule or a blank is required, on which the skin is pulled head down.

To remove excess you need a special scraper. But you can do without it, using the back blunt side of the knife blade.

It is necessary to make scraping movements - from tail to head along the ridge, and then from the ridge to the side, in order to clean the floors of the skins. It is important to ensure that the material is thin, but of equal thickness in all zones.

In this case, the work must be done very carefully, so as not to damage the integrity of the skins.

The knife or scraper is kept perpendicular to the working surface, or at an angle of 20-30 C. Movement must be unhurried, neat, away from you.

With sour milk

Paired blanks must be rubbed with coarse salt and lay the flesh inside one another. After 3 days, salt should be shaken off and put the skins in sour milk (souring period - 5-7 days) for 3 days, folding them with flesh out. For processing 1 skins need 1 liter of sour milk. This method of hand-made is attractive for its simplicity and good quality of the resulting blanks.

Presnoux method

Skins stretch on the rules or frames mezdra out. The area of ​​the abdomen and the ridge are located in the center of the device, and the sides of the skin are located along its edges.

Stretching occurs in such a way that the skin in length exceeds its width by 3 times.

In order to avoid uneven stretching and wrinkling, small nails are used (if the skin is removed from the canvas, it is straightened on the frame and also fixed with nails) or thin ropes.

It is necessary to carefully inspect the fur for insects and process it with sawdust, in which a little gasoline is added.


At the last stage of tanning, the skin should be treated with yolk and glycerin taken in equal amounts. This mixture is covered with the core, allowed to dry out for several hours and dried. Then the skin should be well wrinkled and rubbed with chalk so that it absorbs the remnants of fat.

Naturally, the first time you may not be able to make the correct dressing, but if you repeat the procedure, following the instructions a couple of times, you will cram your hand and the further result will surprise you positively.

Watch the video: Hide Tanning (December 2019).